Winged Elm

[Mad Max]

Winged Elm--They have wings on the smaller branches
The log is split/cut in quarters, they are big enough to have belly staves.
Questions-- #1  I don't have to follow grain lines from tip to tip?
#2  The back of the belly splits just need to be smoothed fairly flat tip to tip?
#3 They can be flat on the back, no crown ?

Thanks

[superdav95]

I’ve only made a couple elm bows and have another in floor tiller stage at the moment.  The advise I was given a while back from “bowed” I believe… when doing mine was to select the hard dense elm if available in your area.  Not all elms are equal.  As far as your first question yes it can tolerate some grain run off within reason.  This is due to its intertwined layers of grain growth.  Obviously there are limits.  Number 2,  not sure what you mean here but if you mean smooth mass reduction out to the tips then yes.  Tips can be smoothed safely or can tolerate a Homlegard or molle style.  3,  it can tolerate a crown or flat back depending on your build style and bow length limb width should be adjusted to suit.  The layer just under the cambium is your back.   Best of luck on your build. 

[Pat B]

My first elm bow was winged elm and I was quite impressed with it as a bow wood. I built a 60" static recurve in the 55# range at 26". Like most bow woods it is always a good idea to follow the grain on the back. You might get away with violations but for me it's not worth the risk. You may be able to still just peel the bark to get a good, clean back this time of year. That would be the easiest way to go.

[Jim Davis]

I've only made one winged elm bow. It was an easy task and it turned out well. Much like hornbeam or hickory in performance.

[bassman211]

Never built a bow with winged elm, but I have 4 American elm sapling bows in the making . 3  which I am shooting , but not finished.  The three that are done maintain some reflex. 50, 54, and 67 inches long with lots of character , and in the 40 lb range. They perform much like hickory. I used heavy belly heat treat on them. I think it is a softer elm, but still OK for lower poundage bows.

[Pappy]

Made several from winged elm, makes a great bow, it response well to heat and is tough as nails. It is hard to get and keep dry so I work it slowly and keep it in a dry place when not working on it , after tillered I give it a few day in a dry place and then seal well, good wood that make a nice bow. Probably the best Elm that I have used.  Good luck and keep us up dated.
 Pappy

[Mad Max]

Made several from winged elm, makes a great bow, it response well to heat and is tough as nails. It is hard to get and keep dry so I work it slowly and keep it in a dry place when not working on it , after tillered I give it a few day in a dry place and then seal well, good wood that make a nice bow. Probably the best Elm that I have used.  Good luck and keep us up dated.
 Pappy

Will do, Thanks guy's