Splice bow project

[Muskyman]

Couple pictures. The one billet has a little bit of wiggle about half way down. Should I worry about that or just have a little character to it.

[bassman211]

Very good pics above Showing the right way to make a splice riser. Makes for a strong glue up. That being said I have made a series of Asian bows with bamboo floor boards with a simple long  V splice riser glue up with AD 40. I add the handle to the back side of the bow, and glue, and wrap the Siyahs on. So far no failures. Their are bows made with V splice tips that are still doing fine, so I figured I would give the riser deal the same shot. It has worked so far though the bows are all 26 inch draw length, and draw weight is 40 to 45 lbs.

[superdav95]

Couple pictures. The one billet has a little bit of wiggle about half way down. Should I worry about that or just have a little character to it.

I would get it glued up so that its good and straight and inline with each other then start working it down and follow your normal bow making practices.  you can steam or dry heat correct the limbs just fine.  just stay away from your handle section with the glue is all.  ea40 is pretty good glue and quite durable.  you may find that after glue up and getting it worked down that your tip alignment is pretty good and not bother with messing with it. 

[Muskyman]

Sounds like a good plan Dave. Thanks. Going to get all my ducks in a row before I start.

[Eric Krewson]

White glue is not a mess to work with, a little on the back of the paper splice pattern, stick the pattern to the limb, cut out the splice, glue the splices and shape the handle section. After you shape the handle, any remnants of the splice pattern will be gone, the paper scrapes off very easily, much like shellac.

The best thing about white glue is you can slide the pattern around on the back of your limb while it is still wet with glue to get a perfect alignment with centerline. With contact cement you only get one shot at getting things right.

[Muskyman]

Decided to try a test piece like was mentioned on here here’s my result.

[Eric Krewson]

That is really good for a first try. To get it just a little better on the bottom joint sand that tight spot above the yellow thing on your work bench just a little or heat the splice and clamp it. I always sand the prong on the outside edge and not the inside the Z if that makes sense I use my belt sander and give the tight area a light touch where the belt rolls over and repeatedly check my fit until I have it right. I don't know how to add arrow lines to a picture to point out an area that needs work.

It was a good idea to do a practice splice, yours is good enough and would work just fine when clamped but I always like to fine tune mine.

[Muskyman]

Thanks Eric. I guessing you’re talking about where it’s marked here in red.

[bjrogg]

Great tips from Eric. And I’ll second the practice suggestion.

Bjrogg

[Eric Krewson]

Yep, you have a little bowed out place in your cut that is keeping the tip and the back end from bottoming out on the splice and creating the gaps.

[superdav95]

Looks not too bad for a first go mike.  The biggest thing is the alignment of the billets and getting that flat surface on under side good when you make your cuts.  Like Eric says those area cleaned up on your cuts will sort it out.