Help with heat corrections on osage. /. Updated

[bentstick54]

Most of the bows I’ve made have needed some heat corrections, and I’ve always tried to make all corrections on an entire limb at the same time. Sometimes I would have to hit an area a second time to get things where I wanted them.
I’ve started roughing out one now, in between honey do’s, and one limb has some sideways snake, some front to back snake, and some twist. I know I can’t get all the side snake out, but my question is, how many times can you heat the same area in order to make corrections without damaging the wood? I’m assuming I would have to stabilize previous corrections so they don’t pull out back to their original shape? And if one limb needs a lot more correction than the other limb, does the extra heat needed to correct that limb make any difference  between the two limbs, or does it all balance out in tillering? All corrections being done at close to floor tiller.

[bentstick54]

Photos

[Muskyman]

had one similar to yours. I did mine with steam. A wallpaper steamer with my bow in a downspout. One limb at a time. Laid it on a piece of melamine and traced out the limb and marked the spots I wanted to bend. Then drilled holes where the clamps would go for the corrections. I think I steamed it for about an hour then took it out of the downspout and clamped it. If I remember correctly I did each limb in one go. I had pictures of it when I did it but can’t find them now. I did find a couple before and after pictures.

Here is it before and after the steam bending. This might not help you much but I’ve had better luck with steam.

[Selfbowman]

Well you have your work there Bud.🤠🤠 But yes I go back to the caul with a heat gun many times on my bows. Osage can take it if you don’t scorch the wood. I usually leave my thickness at about 5/8” thick on the first straighten session. If a lot of heat happens then most all that wood comes off anyway.I lay them on there sides on a flat bench and shim to make the side adjust to its correct position. Then go to the caul for my front to back correction . Then back to the bench on its side and back to the caul. Sometimes 5-6 times. For me the heat bench is where the good bow lives.

[Selfbowman]

Well done Muskyman!!!

[bentstick54]

Great job Muskyman. I think I remember reading your past thread. My stave is a 10 year old stave that I saved because of the growth rings. I’ve always read steam for wet wood and dry heat for dry wood, and I’ve got an inexpensive moisture meter that won’t register a reading below 7%. This stave won’t register a reading with it.
Thanks Arvin, I knew you went back to the heat bench multiple times, but wasn’t sure if you had ran into any issues in doing so. I’m sure you start out with better staves than what I’m used to working with, but remember you had built a snakey bow once also. I’ve still got to thin the limbs down some first, then decide where to start. Hopefully I can get the tips aligned and the twist out.

[bentstick54]

Picture of end grain.

[Pat B]

I've used dry heat with oil quite a few times on a stave with no noticeable problems. be sure the back of the stave is sealed or it may possibly check whether using wet or dry heat. Even a stave that was cut 10 years ago has some equilibrium moisture and adding heat will force that moisture out which can cause checking.
 I use spray shellac to seal the back because it is easily remover when the job is done.

[bentstick54]

Yeah Pat, I’ve gone to shellacking the back, and using canola oil on the belly anytime I’m applying heat. Pretty much solved my checking problems.

[Gordon]

Just looking at the first and second photo I would have probably steamed reflex into the outer limbs first and then addressed string alignment by steaming the handle and bending it in a press. After that, I would have used dry heat for smaller adjustments as necessary. Never had a problem going back over an area with dry heat multiple times, but once you apply dry heat to an area, don't go back with steam - that has resulted in lots of headaches for me in the past.

[superdav95]

All good advise here from guys who know.  I remember that build of yours too musky!  Well done.  I’d thin down some more as you’ve said and steam the big corrections and use dry heat for the minor ones.  I also would be inclined to steam in the recurve of tips then resolve twist and alignment issues. Best of luck with it. 

[bentstick54]

Thanks Gordon and Dave. I really don’t have a set up for steaming. I have very limited room in my basement, that is my “hobby” room. My bench is a Black & Decker workmate that is not super stable, and have limited clamps to work with, I would have to set up to steam in my garage, which is about 5degrees, and would lose to much time trying to get it to the basement to get it clamped down. So I will take it a little at a time with dry heat.
That being said I got it closer to side profile, thinned both limbs down to about 5/8” and shellaced the back. I got my form set up and the bow clamped in place. The top limb in the original photos is the worst, with twist one way then the other, then back and forth with multiple twist directions changes to the tip. I think I should be able to move the last 6” of  the tip over when I take the twist out of that last 6”. Then I will know if that’s enough to line up the tips, so I’ll know how much of the sideways snake I will have to deal with.

[bentstick54]

Here’s my 1st attempt in the 1st 8” from the handle taking some twist out. If it holds, I’ll move the bow down on the form, and work on the next 6” or 8” section twisting back the other way, and continue the same way to the end.

[bentstick54]

Forgot the picture

[superdav95]

Steam will allow for larger corrections is all.  You may find with your approach of tackling it but by bit will work just fine.  You may not even need to get all the wiggles out so long as the tips are in good alignment and the bend is good it will shoot well.  Sometimes we get into this mode of imposing our will onto a piece of wood and the wood let’s us know it doesn’t want to comply.  It may be better in some cases to let the wood somewhat dictate what the bow will be.  Sure it may not be perfectly straight but it shoots good.  Looks like you are starting with a decent piece of Osage which is pretty resilient.  I use a an old Wagner wall paper steamer attached to a section of 4” diameter abs pipe about 3’ long.  I just capped off the one end and attached my steamer hose to it.  It works well and doesn’t take a lot of space.  The good thing about steam aside from its ability to make bigger corrections is that you cannot over do it in heat or over heat your piece.  Steam is pretty constant and safe for wood integrity.  The Heat gun can scorch and can be over done if done too much.  Just take it slow and I’m sure you have it bending in no time.