TC stock makeover

[Eric Krewson]

While I worked down the cheekpiece I lowered and rounded the wrist, here I am checking how even I have it rounded off.



I am going to refine the lock and sideplate panels, I use an old compass with the point cut off to give me an even line to work to around the lock mortise. I don't like wide lock panels like many people leave on CVA and Traditions kits, they make a gun look clunky.

[Eric Krewson]

Lock panel reshaping time;

TC lock and side plate panels are just plain ugly, I didn't take a picture of the lock panel before I started reshaping it but is was as ugly and plain as the side panel.



I started the shaping using a rat tail file to define the panel.



I used small gouge to get close to my lines on the border, I took a picture but it was out of focus so I deleted it.

I used a variety of files to blend the wood around the lock panel into the stock and finished up with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a chainsaw file.



I will call this done, the perspective of the photo makes the nose of the panel look narrow but the width is constant around the circumference of the lock. Now on to that ugly side panel.

[Eric Krewson]

Shaping the side plate side.

I needed to make a pattern of the lock mortis to transfer to the lock plate side.



Transferred;



On TCs there is some ugly wood at the breech that looks better if it is transitioned into the stock alongside the barrel.



Removing the excess, I did the same on the other side of the tang and left no sharp corners.



Transitioned, I may replace the piece of wood at the corner of the tang and hooked breech. It is oil soaked and chipped out.



I started shaping the panel with a small gouge, progressed to a rat tail file and then scrapers and sandpaper.



This is very soft walnut that splinters easily, pieces kept chipping out around the edges so I am going to call this done.

[Eric Krewson]

Getting down to the wire, I did the final wood removal with a file and removed as many of the file marks as I could find with a card scraper.



I went over the stock with a damp paper towel and dried it off with a heat gun to raise the grain.



These whiskers came up after the wetting in spite of a good sanding before I wetted the stock.



The wetting and sanding makes every file mark you thought was gone show up, I removed them with a cabinet scraper. I whiskered the stock twice and had a smooth surface after the second time, no whiskers.

This was once a very rough stock, now it would pass for new. I will look it over with a new set of eyes tomorrow, if it looks OK I will start sealing the wood with a walnut stock sealer. I checked my bottle of Birchwood Casey walnut sealer and found it had set up. I filled the bottle with mineral sprits  and stirred the contents up. Next I did a test with the resulting goop on a scrap piece of walnut to see if it will dry and do the job, I will check my test piece in the morning.


 

[Pappy]

That thing is looking really good Eric.
 Pappy

[Eric Krewson]

Time to finish the stock, first the walnut sanding sealer, I tried putting it on with 220 grit sand paper to add walnut dust to the mix for better pore sealing. I did a couple of coats this way but found it to be a bit sloppy.



I switched to a fresh piece of scotch bright pad and found I got better coverage plus the pad acted like a sponge and held much more finish so I could cover more area. After I applied the sealer I wiped the excess off with an old washcloth, the finish dried almost instantly.



I sanded the sealer back between coats but not back to bare wood. With the scotch bright pad the stock was sealed completely in 4 coats. With all the sanding a little sapwood showed up near the tang, I chose to leave it and not try to stain it way for now.



 

[Eric Krewson]

Time for the Tru-oil; I am applying it with a clean square of scotchbright pad and wiping off the excess like I did with sealer. This is my first time using the scotchbright for Tru-oil application, I am getting more of a satin finish this way opposed to the normal shiny Tru-oil finish as applied by other methods.

This is after three coats, I plan to put on 3 or 4 more light coats to see how it comes out.

[PaulN/KS]

Looking good there Sir. 
TC really had some nice looking walnut for their stocks back then.

[Eric Krewson]

Thanks,

While I am watching paint dry I decided to take all the nicks out of the brass, this gun led a rough life and had really dinged up brass.

I have found an old chainsaw file works the best to remove deep scratches.



I follow the file with 220, 400, crocus cloth and bronze wool.



Next I use a Dremel buffing wheel and compound to polish things up.



I spent three years in the late 60s learning how to get the best results out of Brasso so I finish up with it. Once highly polished I found some more scratches I had to go back and start over with sandpaper to remove.

Done,



I only polish brass once on a build then let nature take it's course. It didn't make much sense to put old dinged up brass on a like new stock with a new GM drop-in barrel.

[Stoker]

It's really come a long way. Looking great
Thanks Leroy

[Buckskinner]

Looks good!  I almost forgot what site I was on for a minute...

[Eric Krewson]

I enjoy posting these kinds of things, just basic stuff, after we get a bit of gun building experience we often forget about the guys who are still in the thinking about it mode. Perhaps there are a few out there that have a stock they would love to refinish but don't have any experience or know how to start. This is my 8th stock shaping and finishing project, I learn something new on each one.

I see a lot of TC refinish jobs on the M/L forums, few if any seal their stock before they apply the finish and many leave their stock as shiny as a mirror which is fine if that is what you like but I prefer a low luster satin finish.

[Buckskinner]

I agree and recommend anyone who is thinking about building a muzzleloader to go for it, very fun and rewarding.  Similar to bow building but also very different as well.  Unless I do a project like you did I think I'm done with building ML's though.  I made flinters in 40 cal, 54 cal and a 20 ga fowler so have the bases covered and one for each kid someday.   Making bows is far less expensive than ML's!!! 

[Eric Krewson]

I am winding down as well, I put together a Kibler .32, .54 Lancaster (Beck), another .54 Lancaster (Haines), a 12 ga English fowler and a TN .40 in flint. On TCs I built a .54 Flint Renegade out of random parts with an L&R lock, a percussion TC Hawkens .50 out of a very old early kit and am reworking the present TC percussion which is a .54 as well.

The only thing I haven't built is a pistol,  I have a TN bear pistol barrel in .50 (15") on order and just ordered this pistol stock blank.

[Buckskinner]

A pistol is somewhat on my radar as well.  That is a beautiful piece of maple, looking forward to seeing that build!