are uneven limbs a problem?

[WhistlingBadger]

So, I got a bow finished, a hickory pyramid bow.  The top limb is 2 1/2" longer than the other.  Long story--seemed like a good idea a the time.  Anyway, I'm wondering if I ought to shorten up the top limb and even them up.  Bottom limb is 28/5"; top limb is 31".  4" non-working handle.  2" wide at the fades; tapering to about 3/8" at the tips.  Currently pulling 50# @ 27".  Wouldn't mind if it were a little heavier.

Opinions?

[Pat B]

I prefer a symmetrical bow with the center of the bow at the center of the handle. I was not taught that way though. Like most older bowyers, we were taught that the lower limb should be shorter. Actually it doesn't matter as long as it is tillered so both limbs carry the same load. The Yumi bows are an exaggerated version of an asymmetrical bow that has been proven over hundreds of years to be effective.  Basically, it's a personal preference.

[PaSteve]

Like Pat said personal preference. Myself, I prefer about 1 1/2" shorter bottom limb.  Just seems to work better for me. I will add some staves dictate where the arrow pass will be depending on wiggles, imperfections, etc.

[mmattockx]

So, I got a bow finished, a hickory pyramid bow.  The top limb is 2 1/2" longer than the other.  Long story--seemed like a good idea a the time.  Anyway, I'm wondering if I ought to shorten up the top limb and even them up.  Bottom limb is 28/5"; top limb is 31".  4" non-working handle.  2" wide at the fades; tapering to about 3/8" at the tips.  Currently pulling 50# @ 27".  Wouldn't mind if it were a little heavier.

Opinions?

How does it look on the tree? Limbs balanced at full draw?

Actually it doesn't matter as long as it is tillered so both limbs carry the same load.

I think this is the key. It must be tillered to match the details of that particular bow.


Mark

[Fox]

Does 3 under or split finger matter for the limb langth?

[WhistlingBadger]

OK, a couple pics from the tree.  Top limb is on the right.  Looks to me like the limbs are bending evenly but one is bending further because it's longer.  Is that good?  Opinions, please!

[RyanY]

Draw it by hand with an arrow nocked to feel how it’s behaving. I’d shoot it a few times to see how it feels too.

[Pat B]

Looks like the outer limb of the longer limb is stiff. Get that bending more then get the limbs even with the bottom limb slightly stiffer.

[Pat B]

Looks like the outer limb of the longer limb is stiff. Get that bending more then get the limbs even with the bottom limb slightly stiffer.

[Del the cat]

On of my sweetest bows was made accidentally with the lower limb 2" longer than the upper...
It's all about the tiller, simple as that.
Del

[WhistlingBadger]

Thanks for the input, guys.

Looks like the outer limb of the longer limb is stiff. Get that bending more then get the limbs even with the bottom limb slightly stiffer.

So, here's my problem.  This thing came in a little underweight, AGAIN. (This is obviously my biggest problem as an aspiring bowyer.  It has happened with every bow I've built so far) It is right at the edge of the weight I want--50# at my draw length.  I was hoping for 55-60, but 50 is OK.  If I tiller it any more, it will be too light.  That means I can either have a well-tillered bow that is too light, or a less-than-satisfying tiller that draws the weight I want.  Not sure what to do about that, but it's one of the reasons I was considering shortening that top limb a bit--that might give me a little extra weight so I can tiller it a bit more, but still have a 50# bow.  Is that a valid option?

[gutpile]

if it is too light whack the 2 inch off top limb.. just blocking that portion, till looks 100% better in pic too.. should give you a couple of lbs also.. after whacking off brace bow before touching anything...gut

[Jackpineboyz]

did you heat treat yet?  Hickory loves heat treat and it adds snap to a wood considered sluggish.  Also gain 3-5 pounds. 
I prefer accurate comfortable bow a few pounds light over a heavy awkward bow, so definelty shoot it a few times and see how the tiller looks at draw. 
I agree about the stiff limb on right.

I always found it odd we like to tiller with bow centered on tree at center string but then hold it lower on handle with arrow 1- 1.5" above center.  A taller top limb may help center the node of the arrow on the string better and shoot smoother as someone mentioned earlier.  I tried this on my last bow and I really enjoy the way it feels in hand when shot.

[TimBo]

Does 3 under or split finger matter for the limb length?

No, but it definitely does for tillering. 

[WhistlingBadger]

OK, I took Gut's advice and whacked two inches off the top.  Slapped on a new tip overlay, cut new nocks, and braced.  Here's what she looks like this morning.  Now drawing 57# @ 27".  What do you think of the tiller now?  Looks a bit off to me, but can't put my finger on why.