Getting crazy over arrow tuning

[capitainepatenaude]

Hello everybody!

I recently completed a flatbow which is 60 lbs at 28''. I'm currently trying to match an arrow set and I'm getting a lot of trouble. I'm starting to think that this bow is cursed.

I'm consistently getting poor arrow flight with knock left (I'm a right handed shooter), no matter what spine and arrow length I'm shooting. I tried 340, 400, and 450 spine arrow of various length. I don't have this problem while shooting my other bows, so I think my form isn't the cause. I have to say that the handle section is quite large. Normally, knock left is associated with weak spined arrows (for right handed shooter), but in this case, I'm wondering if my arrows are so underspined that the contact with the riser is kicking the knock on the left. 

[Selfbowman]

Ok I’ll try. First post a pic of the bow handle mainly then most everyone on here won’t talk about carbon arrows . So let’s see the bow specs. Draw weight at what draw. And I will attempt to lead you to some arrow makers. Arvin

[SteveD]

It could be that you are not used to a bow so far from center shot.  Relax your bow hand while drawing the arrow and keep a straight push at the target.  I shoot carbons out of my selfbows, nothing wrong with them, just make sure you have enough arrow weight.
Steve

[Selfbowman]

If they have rubber fletchings take them off and replace with feathers. That could be the problem.

[bownarra]

I doubt they are underspined.
No problem with carbon arrows? You can still spine test and use normal tuning methods with them. Only thing is I wouldn't recommend is sanding them into spine
If you give the specs asked for it shouldn't be a problem to get you in the ballpark.

[bassman211]

I make shelf bows. I cut a shelf 1/4 to3/8  deep. It is so much easier to tune a bare shaft  arrow that way for me. Don't like shooting off the knuckle. Sounds like you are shooting off your knuckle, but you didn't say. If you are having no trouble with your other bows maybe your limbs are out of time on this one. Lots of things can cause bad arrow flight. Did you try different brace height?

[capitainepatenaude]

Thank you for all your replies!


Bassman: Yes I'm shooting from my knuckle. Usually, I cut a deep arrow shelf and it makes things so much easier. Right now, my bow handle is near 1,5'' wide.

Here's some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/ziRtR8F

The pale arrow is 30 inches long, has a 125 grains arrowhead and has a spin of 500. It shoots nock right, which means that it's underspined The darker arrows are 28'' long, have 100 gr arrowheads and have a spin of 400 to 450. They shoot nock left. I was at 4 meters from my target.

I'm really starting to think that arrows that are severely underspined for a bow will actually shot like an overspined arrow.

[bassman211]

Shoot a bare shaft , and see what that does.

[Gimlis Ghost]

Shoot a bare shaft , and see what that does.

I'm about to try some bare shaft testing myself. I've had some odd problems with kick off that has been very irregular. Sometimes every arrow kicks off to the left then after shooting 6 or more arrows the next dozen or so fly straight as a string.
My groupings have improved as my form improves though I still have fliers.
I'm using some very sturdy low priced arrows with supposedly a 500 spine. I suspect they are much stiffer than that. They have withstood multiple impacts with the timbers of my backstop, the heads buried deeply, without cracking, which other arrows I've tried proved to be much too fragile to withstand even once. None of this batch have cracked or been damaged till today.
Today I got a very tight grouping of three arrows but managed to badly damage one vane nearly ripping it in half . I fired that damaged arrow off several times and was surprised to find it still flew straight and near dead center every time.
Since other than the vane that arrow is undamaged I figure its a candidate for stripping the vanes off completely for bare shaft testing.
First I'll try trimming all three vanes to a very low height, as Ishi is said to have trimmed the feathers of some of his arrows. Not sure if this will have any beneficial effect. Worth trying and nothing is lost.
The rubbery vanes of these arrows look to be much thicker than those of other arrows I have. I suspect the vanes may be adding too much weight to the rear end and thats why they cant unexpectedly. Any slight variation in my draw and release seems to be greatly magnified.
So long as I stay in the zone and make sure my draw is full lenght and release are consistent I get good straight flights with decent groupings.
PS
I've improved greatly in the last few months since the Covid vaccine reaction nearly wrecked my shoulder muscles.

[bassman211]

A bare shaft arrow providing you have good form will be your best teacher short of a shooting coach. Get used to shooting one with your feather groups. That bare shaft will shoot the same as feathers when tuned properly. Then when you shoot a broad head it will be shooting straight and were you want it to hit if you do your part.

[bradsmith2010]

just guessing since you say your form is good,, i think the arrow pass is too wide,,

[Don W]

Did you try flipping the bow? Make the top limb the bottom. It may tell something.

You said you tried various lengths but didn't mention tips? Have you tried heavier tips?

[George Tsoukalas]

Nock left is underspined.
I don't know anything about C arrows.
Jawge

[hoosierf]

I’d also try shooting cock vane toward the riser.  Some of my bows like that approach.  Also play with your nock height.