is holding reflex overrated

[sleek]

Without reading the previous comments I'm gonna say it's not over rated but rather, misunderstood. If a bow holds 2 inches reflex you might be happy until you realize it started with 5, meaning 3 pulled out. But then you got to also know, is that 2 inches of held reflex immediately after unbraced or after sitting overnight.

The ideal situation is this, and this is from my own experience. If you have a shot in bow, you want it to have the same amount of reflex from the moment you unbrace to 8 hours from then. If it gains more as it sits that means the wood was over stressed and its set that is relaxing, ungood.

How much the bow retains isn't important really when it comes to efficiency. If you put 10, kept 2 and it holds 2 after ours of unbrace, ya done good.

[SLIMBOB]

I would respectfully disagree with that sleek. Taken set IS important, just unavoidable. How much set and where it is located is of great importance. With your scenario above, and I paraphrase, that bow that started with 10 inches and ended with 2 inches. Would it not be better to start with 3 inches and end with 2?  And if the set is inner and mid limb, your in trouble. Would it not be better to take 1” midlimb and out?  My answer to both is as implied. The less set the better so far as I am concerned.

[sleek]

I would respectfully disagree with that sleek. Taken set IS important, just unavoidable. How much set and where it is located is of great importance. With your scenario above, and I paraphrase, that bow that started with 10 inches and ended with 2 inches. Would it not be better to start with 3 inches and end with 2?  And if the set is inner and mid limb, your in trouble. Would it not be better to take 1” midlimb and out?  My answer to both is as implied. The less set the better so far as I am concerned.

To give a quick answer, induced reflex that pulled out/didn't take, and set are two different things. Your stated answer does not differentiate between the two.

[HanibalLecter(InnerSmile)]

I have never experienced set in any of my bows. On the contrary, I have to keep my bows stringed at all times to prevent them from gaining reflex. FWIW I use green wood and start shooting my bows immediately. I think people season their staves and this causes them to lose compressive strength. I also have never broken a bow in my entire life.

[SLIMBOB]

While I can agree that heat induced reflex will or may differ from the “natural” reflex the log/ stave started with, it doesn’t change my point. If you started with a certain amount of reflex, in either variety, I would argue it is preferable to lose less than more, and if it is preferable, then set in either variety matters.

This clown cross posted with me, and I just find nothing worth responding to in the drivel.

[HanibalLecter(InnerSmile)]

Hanibal, I'm familiar with the device but I wasn't familiar with the terminology. How does the tepelik relate to Brads original question?

You can use those to bend your bow before bracing. You get a good even bend with those things, it's less stressful than bracing your bow the usual way. If OP would pre-warm his bow gently and bend it on to the tepeliks, then string, he would probably not lose much reflex to set.

[Morgan]

I have never experienced set in any of my bows. On the contrary, I have to keep my bows stringed at all times to prevent them from gaining reflex. FWIW I use green wood and start shooting my bows immediately. I think people season their staves and this causes them to lose compressive strength. I also have never broken a bow in my entire life.

This guy lol.

[Morgan]

Hanibal, I'm familiar with the device but I wasn't familiar with the terminology. How does the tepelik relate to Brads original question?

You can use those to bend your bow before bracing. You get a good even bend with those things, it's less stressful than bracing your bow the usual way. If OP would pre-warm his bow gently and bend it on to the tepeliks, then string, he would probably not lose much reflex to set.

I sincerely hope that someone new to bow building does not come across this nonsense and take it for fact. For the record, do not tiller a bow out of a green stave and expect anything other than a sponge with a string on it. Also don’t heat your bow just before bracing it. Same reason. I’m sure horn bows have properties that allows things that cannot be achieved with an all wood or a wood to wood composite. Since this is not a topic in horn bow section, it leaves much room for confusion if one does not know better.

[HanibalLecter(InnerSmile)]

I sincerely hope that someone new to bow building does not come across this nonsense and take it for fact. For the record, do not tiller a bow out of a green stave and expect anything other than a sponge with a string on it.

Wow, here's what we call arrogant ignorance. The bow's power increases as the stave loses moisture content. It doesn't matter if you allow that to happen in log form or bow form, it's always going to dry (albeit faster in the tillered bow).

 You WANT the bow to start off spongey. That's how you avoid set.

Also don’t heat your bow just before bracing it. Same reason. I’m sure horn bows have properties that allows things that cannot be achieved with an all wood or a wood to wood composite. Since this is not a topic in horn bow section, it leaves much room for confusion if one does not know better.

I assure you there's no magic properties in hornbows. Wood bows regain their stiffness once they've returned to normal temperatures. If you knew better you could give reason for your superstitions.  Instead, you're just here to be a contrarian.

[bradsmith2010]

?

[Fox]

I have never experienced set in any of my bows. On the contrary, I have to keep my bows stringed at all times to prevent them from gaining reflex. FWIW I use green wood and start shooting my bows immediately. I think people season their staves and this causes them to lose compressive strength. I also have never broken a bow in my entire life.

Ummmmm...... excuse you? 

[Pat B]

Sounds like Hannibal is talking about Asiatic horn bows.

[HanibalLecter(InnerSmile)]

Sounds like Hannibal is talking about Asiatic horn bows.

Yes, but you can do this with wood bows as well. You're still stringing the wood bow, just doing it in a way that reduces concentrated strain by providing the arc support. Tepeliks can still be used for wood bows.

[Morgan]

I sincerely hope that someone new to bow building does not come across this nonsense and take it for fact. For the record, do not tiller a bow out of a green stave and expect anything other than a sponge with a string on it.

Wow, here's what we call arrogant ignorance. The bow's power increases as the stave loses moisture content. It doesn't matter if you allow that to happen in log form or bow form, it's always going to dry (albeit faster in the tillered bow).

 You WANT the bow to start off spongey. That's how you avoid set.

Also don’t heat your bow just before bracing it. Same reason. I’m sure horn bows have properties that allows things that cannot be achieved with an all wood or a wood to wood composite. Since this is not a topic in horn bow section, it leaves much room for confusion if one does not know better.

I assure you there's no magic properties in hornbows. Wood bows regain their stiffness once they've returned to normal temperatures. If you knew better you could give reason for your superstitions.  Instead, you're just here to be a contrarian.

Son, I am not arrogant, ignorant, nor a contrarian. I have some actual hands on experience, of which pales in comparison to many others in this board. I’m not sure what your deal is, but it gets old. I have a notion that if we were to have this conversation in person, you would not be so eager to call me arrogant and ignorant. Folks ought to treat people with the same respect as they would looking them in the eye. And yes, I would call the nonsense you were spewing false if you were standing in front of me.

[HanibalLecter(InnerSmile)]

I sincerely hope that someone new to bow building does not come across this nonsense and take it for fact. For the record, do not tiller a bow out of a green stave and expect anything other than a sponge with a string on it.

Wow, here's what we call arrogant ignorance. The bow's power increases as the stave loses moisture content. It doesn't matter if you allow that to happen in log form or bow form, it's always going to dry (albeit faster in the tillered bow).

 You WANT the bow to start off spongey. That's how you avoid set.

Also don’t heat your bow just before bracing it. Same reason. I’m sure horn bows have properties that allows things that cannot be achieved with an all wood or a wood to wood composite. Since this is not a topic in horn bow section, it leaves much room for confusion if one does not know better.

I assure you there's no magic properties in hornbows. Wood bows regain their stiffness once they've returned to normal temperatures. If you knew better you could give reason for your superstitions.  Instead, you're just here to be a contrarian.

Son, I am not arrogant, ignorant, nor a contrarian. I have some actual hands on experience, of which pales in comparison to many others in this board. I’m not sure what your deal is, but it gets old. I have a notion that if we were to have this conversation in person, you would not be so eager to call me arrogant and ignorant. Folks ought to treat people with the same respect as they would looking them in the eye. And yes, I would call the nonsense you were spewing false if you were standing in front of me.

*actual hands-on *BAD* experience.


I honestly laugh at most of the "experienced" people here. Breaking +50 inch bows that don't even pull 27"?  Lifting splinters on staves that weren't even violated? Making bows out of staves that look like an Irish shillelagh? HOw does that even happen? I've never broken a bow in my life and don't even make bows longer than 35 inches anymore. I'll be combing through your post history soon.