Boo backed Ipe noob questions

[Maxwelliuston]

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first time poster.  I'm in the planning phase of a boo backed ipe bow.  This will be bow number 7ish for me so I'm still pretty green at this.  Shooting for 60#+ at 28" but I'm more concerned with making a quality bow so weight isn't necessarily a huge priority for me.  I've laid out the bow to be 69" long (nice) tapering from 1" 1/2 at the fades to 1/2" tips (seems uncomfortably narrow imo but what do I know) with generic handle dimensions - 4" handle, 2" fades to 1 1/2" - gonna slap some red oak on there for my riser - not doing an arrow shelf

My questions pertain to achieving r/d or static recurves/flipped tips.  I want some degree of curvaceous intrigue.  The ipe board I'm starting with is 3/4" thick and I'd like to preserve that thickness in the handle section so I don't have to futz with a power lam.  I was planning on using a bandsaw to remove all the excess wood on the belly of the limbs and leaving it full thickness in the handle section and MAYBE attempting kerf joint recurves if I'm feeling froggy or simply doing the generic r/d shape at glue up.

If I were to do kerf joint recurves, when would be the right time to bend? At glue up or afterwards? Do I use dry heat or steam? Is TBIII good for all my glueing and laminating purposes?  Any and all help and recommendations is greatly appreciated.

[Del the cat]

IMO Don't try to be too clever... what you are making isn't far from an English longbow.
Just make up a former with a very gentle inch of deflex and and 2 inches of reflex spread over the whole limbs for when you glue up.
Try and get a fairly even thickness taper on your Ipe before glue up. It won't need much Ipe to make a pretty heavy bow!
Don't mess with any joints.
Del

[bownarra]

The only way to bend ipe is to have the lams thin enough for them to conform to the shape of a form. Steam/ dry heat are a complete waste of time.
You would glue the shape in at glue up.
TB111 is perfectly ok to use. It isn't the best glue for your riser block though.
! 1/2" is a bit wide for ipe but good starting dimensions. 1 1/4" is plenty for a 60#'er.

[Beba]

I’m with Del and bownarra with 1 exception. Ipe is oily wood so I use system three’s G2 epoxy and degrease the ipe with alcohol. Was surprised at how thin the limbs ended up on 45 and 55# bows.

[gutpile]

perry reflex .. dean torges hunting the bamboo backed bow ,shows how.. ipe is brutal on your tools.. it doesn't steam or dry heat well at all either.. so leave a little wide at glue up for any alignment issues.. gut

[Pat B]

...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

[Dances with squirrels]

When I recurve them with the kerfing method, I use Smooth On epoxy and glue the bamboo to the back and the lams in the kerfs all at the same time. No heat needed.

[Badger]

...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

   Pat, I have always used TB3 also but a few years ago found out TB1 original is stronger on ipe. Not sure why but I made the switch and it seemed to work well. Ipe is the only wood that I know of where they recommend TB1.

[Maxwelliuston]

...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

Wow, 1 1/4? These seem like such delicate dimensions, especially in contrast to the bows I've been making. The straight taper from 1 1/2 to 1/2 already seems mighty narrow but I'm excited for the turnout, thanks for the input

[PatM]

...and 1 1/2" might be too wide. 1 3/8" to 1 1/4" might be better.
My first ipe bow was hickory backed and about 62". I made it 1 1/2" wide and when it was tillered out the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8"  backing. The bow shot fine but looked a bit odd. This bow was glued up with TBIII and I never had a problem with that.

Wow, 1 1/4? These seem like such delicate dimensions, especially in contrast to the bows I've been making. The straight taper from 1 1/2 to 1/2 already seems mighty narrow but I'm excited for the turnout, thanks for the input

  I have an Ipe backed with Maple that's less than an inch wide.  An Ipe bow can look more like a fishing rod than a bow.

[bownarra]

Yes nonne of my elbs with ipe bellies are over 1" wide, that width will do for upto 100# no problem.

[mmattockx]

I have an Ipe backed with Maple that's less than an inch wide.  An Ipe bow can look more like a fishing rod than a bow.

Pat, how thick are the two lams in a bow like that?


Mark

[PatM]

I actually made it about half and half.  1/4 inch for each roughly.

[Digital Caveman]

I'm surprised Maple will hold together on Ipe, I would think hickory or white oak is necessary.

[PatM]

Maple is easily strong enough.