Tillering a reflexed stave- Calling it done

[bentstick54]

Hit post to quick, sorry.

[bentstick54]

At rest.

[bentstick54]

At this point should I keep taking off entire limbs, or concentrate on the inners to finish out the last 3” of draw?

[Dances with squirrels]

Inner third of the left limb looks a little stiff, although I understand those are where your knots are.

Which limb is the top?

If it were me, I'd be pulling from where my string hand will be when I'm drawing it, and assess the strength of the limbs that way.

[bentstick54]

I’ve been lucky so far pulling this way until about the last inch then shooting in some by hand and finishing tillering by feel from there. I’m thinking of using the left limb with the knots as my lower limb because it’s starting to run a little thinner than the right limb and wants to stay stiffer anyway. Would like other opinions on my train of thought, as I can switch limbs with no problems being it’s symetrical. I usually let the bow decide, but haven’t faced this knot situation before.

Do I continue removing wood from entire limbs, or concentrate on any particular area to try to minimize any additional set? Hopefully you can see penciled tracing of where the limbs started at reflex before starting tillering behind unbraced photo.

[bentstick54]

Knot locations

[Bob Barnes]

I'm not an expert, but I think you have the right idea.  That stiffer limb should do well as the bottom limb.  I think you have done a nice job so far and it looks like you're about there.

[bentstick54]

Thx Bob, hopefully I can get to work on it some more this afternoon.

[bjrogg]

I really hate giving tillering advice just from pictures.

I agree that your doing a nice job so far. It’s to the point where it gets harder and harder to figure out what isn’t a bow and what is. Move slowly and check on the tree more often.

I’m not a expert either. I hate to cause any confusion because I do think you are doing a good job so far. I probably would make the knotty limb the top limb. I just like having the best wood in the bottom limb. I’m not saying that is for sure the right way, but it’s how I usually do it.

As for your bend it looks nice. I think I would probably try to get the inner working just a little more on left limb. I know you have knots there though so it’s a bit of a risk.

Right limb looks slightly stiff between your 2 and 3 marks.
Probably start there first and maybe see if you can tease a little out of the fades. Really need to be careful there though.

I just want to say again. You are doing a nice job so far. Basically keep doing what your doing

Bjrogg

[bentstick54]

Thx Brian, was hoping you would chime in. You’ve got a lot more bows under your belt than I do. I agree that it’s hard to tiller off of just photos, so I won’t hold you responsible lol. I’ll try to tweek it a bit to 26” at current 4” brace height, then bump up to a 6” brace to finish out from there. I’ve found that the bows I’ve made of this design seem to have their sweet spot at about 6-1/4” brace. At 26” I’ll start shooting some arrows through it, and try both limbs a bit and see how they feel and decide for sure which limb to make the top.

[bentstick54]

Worked it to 51# @ 28”. Have shot about 25 arrows through it then turning it over and shot another 25. Can’t really tell any difference between the two. I am planning on using the limb with the knots as the upper limb at this point hoping it will benefit the longevity of the life of the bow. 1st photo is with knots in lower limb, 2nd photo knots in upper limb. I will continue shooting in a 150-200 arrows before finishing in case I need to do any tweaking. Opinions and comments welcome.

[bentstick54]

I have shot 100 plus arrows through it since I got it tillered out to 28”. Settled on the knotty limb as the upper limb. Last night I shot 50 arrows through it, then set up chronograph. 478gr arrow averaged 165fps. 432gr arrow average 170fps. Then I put it back on tillering tree to double check weight, held up at 50# at 28”. Checked for draw force, from 12” to 23” gained pretty even 2ppi, 23”to 26” gained 2.5ppi, 26” to 28” bumped to 3#ppi.  Lost 1-3/4” of reflex that I started with, to almost dead straight immediately after unstringing.

Final bow Osage 50#@28”, 66” NTN. Total mass weight 21.7ouches. 12 strand D97 string.
Still need apply Truoil finish and leather handle wrap. Should be a good hunter. Thanks for some helpful input from those that offered it.

[bjrogg]

Well done sir. Looks good
Bjrogg

[Bob Barnes]

looks like you have a bow!   

[Tradslinger]

Hello all, I'm a new bowyer with just 3 bows under my belt. But just had to say that the bow looks awesome to me. The pics are the way to go for someone like me with an untrained eye. I was just curious why you didn't use heat or steam to keep the reflex. it would have been very nice if it had retained the reflex but on the other hand, you didn't really lose much in regards to a set if it had been flatter to begin with. myself, love the knots on upper limb where I can see them when I shoot. can't wait to see the finished bow.