More on epoxy acetone for those who haven't heard of it;
No special formula; put a couple of ounces of acetone in a small jar, I use baby food jars. Squeeze about 1/4" (bottom of the jar) of two ton epoxy(double tubes) into the jar. Stir with a popsicle stick until the epoxy is completely dissolved.
Dip a small piece of (2" square) of tee shirt in the mix to saturate it, wear rubber gloves. Because the acetone evaporates so fast you wil only get a couple of quick swipes on your bow before it gets real tacky. This mix makes a super shiny finish, the shine can be knocked off with steel wool or a scotch bright pad. I understand that guys who want a perfect satin finish go over the shiny finish with rottenstone.
If it is a hot sunny day the epoxy will cure in a few hours and be ready for another coat. Unless I am in a hurry I usually let the coats cure overnight and spend a week putting on 7 or 8 coats.
If epoxy acetone is used on arrows you can loose an arrow under the grass for a month or two and the finish will still be pristine when you find it.
A couple of variables; more acetone less epoxy gives you more working time but will need more coats, 5 Minute epoxy will cure faster, I am stuck in my ways and use the same two tone epoxy I started out with. This finish is also called a Massey finish, Jay Massey, writer and adventurer was the first to mention it. He said he lost a sinew backed hickory bow in an alaskan river, found it a month later and it was still shootable after month in the river, the massey finish protected it.
I am pretty sure my star bow student Darrin uses denatured alcohol to dissolve his epoxy with good results and a longer working time with his rag.
This mix will dissolve any writing on bows or cresting on arrows unless the paint is water based. I have crested over epoxy acetone and gone over the cresting with a couple coats of tru-oil. I am lazy now and only use tru-oil on my arrows.
