Black locust chrysal .. ?

[Fox]

Heres a black locust bow i just finished tillereing its 50#/26" . 1 5/8" wide 55" NTN. so these chrysals or (atleast i think they are), well i a had been tillering and was at 24" it hadent taken hardly any set. I did a second heat treat just 15 mins on each limb... the next day when drew it back it took almost an inch of set wich was odd so i stopped and let it sit a few more days, after sitting it was back to about half an inch of set after i drew it to 24" but a bunch of "chrysals" showed up in a spot that its barly bending and no chrysles anywhere else... im confused, at the very spot it chrysaled i had heated out some deflex could it have something to do with that? it also hasent taken any set where the chrysals are. i kept tillering and its to 26" in the photo. Any suggestions would be quite helpfull... Thanks

-Fox

103434 by Livvydog, on Flickr
103438 by Livvydog, on Flickr

103432 by Livvydog, on Flickr
103430 by Livvydog, on Flickr
103426 by Livvydog, on Flickr
103424 by Livvydog, on Flickr

[dylanholderman]

those look more like tension breaks to me, chrysals are normally straight lines going either diagonally or straight across the limb. 

[Fox]

Okay thank  you ... that could have deffinatly happened when i was taking the deflex out right there... that's the only time the belly took any tension ... anything i should do about that? Will the bow come apart there or should i not worry about it?

[dylanholderman]

they don't look to have opened up very much so i would just put some thin CA glue in and hope for the best, that has worked for me in the past but on mostly static parts of the limb.

[Fox]

Okay will do... would a fiber or sinew wrap help at all do ya think?

[dylanholderman]

not in this case, a fiber/sinew wrap will only help if the problem is on the tension side of the bow, in this case all it would do is cover up the problem.
not that that is a bad thing if it bothers you, throw a matching wrap on the other limb and it can add to the primitive look.

[bubbles]

If they keep getting worse they're most likely chrysals (which is my suspicion) - also, if they're chyrsals that mean that area is failing in compression, so as they get worse a hinge should develop in that area. 
When did you take the deflex out? If it was early on, before tillering, you would have probably tillered through any tension cracks as you tillered the bow, unless they were quite deep.

[Fox]

I heated the deflex out right before they showed up and i heard a small crunch noise when i turned the vice the last time... also in the 3d pic the top limb is the limb with the cracks/chrysals and in that pic you can see that how it is a growth ring higher than the lower limb implying that it's stiff there aswell

[bownarra]

Tension failure.
To avoid these do not bend the bow much at all before remving any deflexed area. Once it has been compressed wood does not like being stretched
However these are only a cosmetic flaw and do not endanger the bow like a chrysal would on BL.

[Fox]

Okidoki thanks glad to know its just aesthetic... how's the tiller?

[sleek]

Tiller looks like you been at this for awhile. It looks very even, and as far as I can tell, well distributed.

[Fox]

Thanks so much sleek.. im relatively new and young.Tillering was my weak side for a while, but im figuring it out!

[bownarra]

The bend looks very nice to me and the wood will tell you if you anyway. B.locust is a great wood to learn tillering with. Any weak spots or inapproriate tiller/overstrained areas will almost certainly chrysal.

[Fox]

Thanks bownarra.. is this bow  acceptable for deer? Its  48/26 and has taken about 3/4" set. Id be shooting elderberry arrow shafts with an old 125 grain zwaky head...

[sleek]

Thats a perfect weapon for deer!