Multiflora rose and tiller check please

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

So im working this stick bow today because i felt like doing it

It Will be a bendy handle short bow, no draw lenght wishes, Just try to get a Shooter out of it. Can annyone guess the species? Also, i got It to low brace , 4inch wich i think i Will keep since i heard It is better, i make a good wrist protector.

Unbraced It have a littlebit of set/stringfollow (right after unbracing as It didn't have the chance to rest yet when i started It had half of n inch of reflex. It isnt Heat treated yet but i  gently try It bit by bit  as there isnt a lot of info of this species. It have a few nasty knots on the back and the side and there is a crack/scar on the middle of the back of one limb but dont know what the Wood under the Bark is like there. I Just hope for the best. I did a few short draw shots with It but for the amount of Wood It is made from its damn fast for what  i experienced of the other bows i Made, lot faster then the plum bow. Here are some pictures of It.

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

And a few more pics, the picture with the hammer as tillering stick is 12 inch draw at 4 inch brace

[DC]

Elderberry?

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Nope its 51 and a bit inches long by the way.

And what u think about the tiller till now?

[DC]

I think the right limb is a bit stiff. I think it's OK in the middle of the limb but the inner and outer looks a bit stiff. That droop in the sheet may be fooling me though.

[willie]

I think the right limb is a bit stiff. ......... That droop in the sheet may be fooling me though.

the tillering hammer is not very close to the middle of the bow either so it is hard to judge.

how long are your arrows going to be for that one Ricardo? A lot of primitive bows were short and shot with different shooting styles.

[bownarra]

Right outer is the firs t thing to work on.

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

I drawed a pencil Line in the middle of the bow and that's where the hammer is sitting. Could be that the picture is made from An angle(that the bow turned  a bit because of the wind from the fan) i worked on the limb and drawed It to 16 inches wich still felt safe.

The species by the way is a thick rose branch. I am wanting to shoot arrows that are the same lenght as the final draw lengt so i can not over draw Them, thay also would have a relative higher spine weight  and therefore can be thinner and lighter wich would make then fly fast

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Got It bending 20/21 inches now. How far Could i go you all think? And should i put on some siyahs? If so they Will be gloed with a scarf joint Just as overlays but the glue surface Will be a bit longer. I Will use 2 component glue and b55 to wrap around It for safity

[Fox]

Id think 24-25"?  And im not sure siyhas would put to much  stress it but i am not very expereinced so wait for someone whoe knows a bit more l...

-Fox

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Hmm, how i think its a yes and a no, i think it depends how much curve you give It. When you add siyahs you make the limbs longer, and longer bow is longer draw. The curve is the reflexed part wich Will add more stress so i think if you put on right recurves with siyahs wich Will add 4 or 5 inches per limb ik get pretty close to 28 inch draw lenght with the same weight as i have now. This is Just An assumption as i have nevver worked with It too but its Just criss crossing my mind when i start Thinking about the mechanics

[DC]

How long has this been drying? Doesn't seem that long ago that you cut it, or at least posted about cutting it. I have no clue about rose wood and not much about short bows but if you're bound and determined to glue siyahs on something then go for it. I would use a "V" joint.

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

No the siyahs ain't a must but people advised me to put Them on An other too short bow so i tought It could be better for this one too. Before i try a v splice i first need to save some money for the Japanse Saw because i tried It with a backsaw but had a hard time to even get close to a neat fit. But appart from the fact that a v splice ofcourse would be better, didn't out ancestors also used a scarf joint with sinew wrapping?

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Oh and @DC its drying for quite some time now. I had this one cut before the rosé "log" as i tought this one was the biggest i had evver seen but in fact It was even a bit smaller then the first one. At the moment i like the Wood, It have really fine grain and isnt really heavy, when im sure im done il put It on the kitchen scale from my morgen to weight It. If i dont put siyahs on It ill try to quick dry some small pieces of laburnum heartwood as the log wasnt suitable for bow Wood but i really like the dark Brown colour of It. If the quick dry fails It is going to be black locust burl.

Do Anny of you have some scrap pieces of multi flora rose or a way too thick shoot to make An Arrow from? Im kind of affraid to try Heat treating It because i dont know how It reacts and so far im pretty happy with the bow haha

[Ricardovanleeuwen]

Today i did some Heat treating and it was a good thing to do. I also reflexed the tips a little bit with dry Heat till a little Hair crack came in the bend. When i went out with my dog i grabbed A thin cane Arrow and shot It at my target with half draw and wow...its hitting way faster then my plum bow did. While walking my dog i Just worked the bow as i would on a tiller tree. At one point i had the "what evver' moment and dicided to Just pull It to full draw. It didn't explode and no splinters lifted yet. I really like the Wood and deffenitly keep An eye out for a more cleaner stave so i can make a proper recurve from It. Here is a picture of close to full draw. It ain't the best pic but im not used to make selfies and my Neighbours dont take bowmaking serious. It pulls about 35 lb at what om pulling in the picture