Winged elm AFB

[wizardgoat]

Nice one Ed! would love to try some elm one day

[BowEd]

Thanks wizardgoat....My elm supply is not what I'd like it to be either.I'm going to work on that this coming year.

[HighEagle]

Man I have to say that's one of the best full draw profiles I've seen, And have to agree that that form looks perfect

[BowEd]

Thanks HighEagle......I'm lucky to 3D shoot with a bunch of knowledgeable bow making fellas and we kinda keep an eye on each others flaws while shooting.We keep an eye on each others arrow flight too.

[bownarra]

Master piece

[BowEd]

Thanks bownarra...Not sure it's a masterpiece but appreciate the compliment.I started with a deflexed overall stave of 1.5".Reflexed it out to 5".It currently holds 3.50" after a couple hundred arrows through it.
I was curious myself how much reflex it would hold from it's deflexed starting position.In all around 50%.The deflexed position on this one did'nt hamper the final resting position after shooting it in.
I don't use a jig or heat gun holder while heat treating.I stand over top of it the whole time free handing it.Keeping it around 3.5 to 4 inches away from bow limb.Moving around a half inch along.It does a nice even thorough overall job then at least for me anyway.
This elm itself showed to be a very mallable type wood while heat treating.Unfortunately not all elm is the same.It held 100% reflex well after clamps were removed from form.In fact the shellack on the back melting actually kept the bow partially stuck to the form after clamps were removed.It took a bit longer to turn dark brown while heat treating.Thus the 1.5 hours per limb heat treatment.
All in all I've proven to myself anyway before that a bow like this will stay just as durable and resilient time wise as any moderate type design.This one will be the same.

[backtowood B2W]

profiles looking so great - also the bow!

[silent sniper]

Ed, that bow is about as perfect as can be for a whitewood self bow. Excellent work!

[JW_Halverson]

Ed, that upper limb asymmetrical canted fade-out is a great way to ruin a good piece of wood. I know, I've experimented with that time and again until I got it to work. Looks like you pulled it off! Good job, sir!

For anyone that wants to attempt this, lemme warn you to not let that fade-out bend at all, not even a hint! The limb will twist and shear out. Elm's crazy interlocking grain probably helped some, but the key is gentle tillering slowly sneaking into the fade.

Again, Ed, a smashing success off your bench! You never disappoint!

[BowEd]

Thanks fellas...I've seen some stellar self bows on here in the past from some characterish pieces of wood.This one not much so,and this type has been shown skillfully by others on here with good success.
What you are describing JW comes with a feeling in the hand on the grip at full draw of the handle bending or moving slightly.This is not the case with this bow.Let me explain what I see going on with the bow.
There is 0 reflex put in the first 6" of limbs out from the fades.In fact there is small degree of deflex the first inch or two and more close to 6" which makes it look like it is bending into the fades at full draw.While making sure I put enough width of wood into the fades to begin with to withstand the high strain there.From a little ways outside the fades there is a gradual increase in reflex to the tips.
The outer limbs are reduced but still holding and staying flat at full draw to make it appear stiff at full draw.Not being compromised to lose their punch.A variation of a working recurve but with straight tips.It has 0 handshock with a 10 grain arrow and feels balanced at full draw which means to me it is tillered and tuned well.
One fade has more of a crown than the other somewhat to possibly make it look like a propeller but it is'nt.The bow is symmetrical and does'nt have much if any propellers overall to it.I pretty much took out any if at all while heat treating it.
I always jump at the opportunity in the past and now of a natural deflexed fade in handles from any way they have them naturally.Usually with success.
Long ago I had a 63" D/R BL's bottom half of it's handle grip pop off once from this procedure while tillering.Just smooth oned it right back on and put a rawhide handle on it.Sinew wrapped the fades.Still shooting it.Another point about that bow is that it finalized as 13.00 ounces overall.To this day I think it's the only bow that has ever done something like that."So there is a limit".My diagnosis on that one was too short of fades.Around 1.25" a piece because of all of the side tillering I did to it.This bow has 1.75" fades a piece with no side tillering done to it.

[simk]

Coming in a bit late...but thats a stunning bow in many aspects. How you concentrate that bend right after the fades...great!

[BowEd]

Thanks simk.You outdid yourself on the hornbow thread also.I really think this bow does the majority of it's work midlimb.

[simk]

Off course, you are right. I just meant, the bend starts right out of the fades - can't get any better.

[BowEd]

It can kinda look that way because of the natural deflex coming out of the fade.I left plenty of wood width wise to handle the inner limb integrity.

[burchett.donald]

Ed,
         I can tell you took great care in that tillering...The unstrung profile tells the whole story...Nice!
                                                                                                                                                    Don