Backing and safety

[WhistlingBadger]

Quick question, oh bow-making gurus:  Am I correct understanding that backed bows are generally safer than self-bows for beginners?  I ask because I had a bad injury a few years ago, and long story short, I really, really need to avoid hard whacks to the head.  This emoji  does not make me laugh; it gives me nightmares.

So, when I take the plunge and build a board bow (spring is slowly coming and hopefully I'll be able to get outside to work in another month or two), would I be better off putting a backing on it right off the bat?  It seems like a good alternative to wearing a fencing mask and bike helmet, which would make anchoring awkward.

[Del the cat]

With your concerns I'd suggest something with a bamboo back, virtually bomb proof, and if it did fail it would de-laminate or spit collapsing gracefully rather than breaking into bits and whacking you on the head.
Del

[WhistlingBadger]

Thanks for the suggestion, Del.  I need to read TBB1 again; I'm sure it addresses this and I just ordered a copy.  But in the meantime, I appreciate the experience around here.

[Pat B]

A self bow with a pristine back IMO would be safer than a backed bow but that depends on the backing also. With a selfbow I prefer summer cut whitewoods so the bark peels right off leaving a pristine back. With wood like osage, mulberry and locust care must be taken to achieve a pristine back but I've never had a problem doing that.
I prefer hickory over boo only because I've had better luck with hickory backings and even though ta hickory backing is from sawn lumber the grain seems to hold together better. My boo backed bows haven't exploded but have lifted splinters. I'm sure that is because I wasn't careful enough when prepping the back.

[DC]

This may be the place for this. Does exercising a bow a few hundred times on the tree stress it as much as shooting it a few hundred times?

[bradsmith2010]

Backing a bow can add a bit of durability ,..or peace of mind if needed,,.I have made quite a few bows in last 30 years ,..not whacked on head yet,..I think ur good to go,..using proven designs and methods

[bradsmith2010]

DC,..I think the pressure on the string is a bit different,..when shooting

[DC]

Yes, the pressure on the string will be greater but how about the bow? If you exercise the bow a few hundred times successfully does that mean that it "probably" won't break.

[willie]

are you thinking of backing with a different wood lam or some sort of other materiel? fibers?

[mmattockx]

This may be the place for this. Does exercising a bow a few hundred times on the tree stress it as much as shooting it a few hundred times?

From a structural standpoint it should be the same (or extremely close) for the compression wood on the belly, assuming you are drawing it to the same length. I don't know how the tension side would be affected during a shot and I could see that it would be different due to the dynamic effects during the shot.


Mark

[WhistlingBadger]

are you thinking of backing with a different wood lam or some sort of other materiel? fibers?

I'd probably do either rawhide or linen.  I like the idea of sinew bows but not right off the bat.  The other reason I'm thinking about backed bows is that I eventually want to cut my own bow wood, and straight, knot-free staves just don't exist around here.

[Hamish]

 
1 Use a proven bow design;  2. use a proven bow wood;  3. use straight grained timber; 4. compensate for faults like pin knots.

If you don't use this approach you increase your chances of a stave exploding on you. Most people get into trouble by not using .3, when making a board bow. You can apply 1, 2, and 4 but without straight grained timber you're wasting time if you want a safe, durable bow.

Linen or rawhide backing will give you a little room for error with a borderline board, they won't make a totally unsuitable stave into a safe and durable bow. You are still better of searching for a better board.

How do I know? I come from the school of hard knocks, or should I say head knocks.

[simk]

I always feel very very safe with a good backing. Gives me a good feeling. Did some ash backings (perfect straight grain) and sinew backings. Never broke one...but many unbacked bows. Just my expirience.

[Weylin]

If a bow really lets go it will cut through rawhide like it's paper. Not saying it doesn't help, It does, but the stave or board needs to have good integrity in it's own right for the rawhide to really be helpful.

[bassman]

"Probably won't break" after a couple hundred shots. Not wild Choke Cherry. I got as much as 300 to 500 shots before they blew up, and mean blew up. One broke my glasses in two, and bruised my eye. Piece of the top limb let go. Weylin is right, two were backed with raw hide, and still  exploded. Two were not backed, but made from staves, and I made them wide and long . I have one left. A 38 pounder.  The only way I would ever shoot that bow again would be to sinew back it.That is what the natives did with wild Choke Cherry. They new what they were doing. Walnut was just the opposite. I have one that has a violated back that is still shooting good after many shots. Never broke the back on a Walnut bow ,and I have made quiet a few of them. Not all wood is created equal as you all know, and backing does not guarantee that a bow will not break with certain white woods. JMO