Tiller check on elm shorty

[IrishJay]

This is a 54" ntn elm 5 curve that I'm working on. Its currently 39#@ 31". I'm trying to keep it just above 35#, so I have a little room to work with for adjustments. Theres something that looks a bit off in the tiller, but I can't put my finger on what it is.

[bjrogg]

Do you have a unbraced picture. It looks to me like the outers are stiff, but really can’t say for sure with out unbraced profile.
Bjrogg

[SLIMBOB]

Your bend is concentrated in too short an area. It should be spread over more of the limb. The outers should be sharing some of the work load. An equal part of it ideally. Your bend is all on the inner 1/3 it appears.

[IrishJay]

Heres the unbraced pic.

[PatM]

You're probably asking more from the wood than it can take.   The  string angle is over 90 degrees even with the flipped tips.  You can get the handle area and the parts outside  it  working more to spread the load

 The tiller also looks a bit  ragged as if it is made up of multiple short flat sections linked with smaller hinges. 

[burchett.donald]

  +1 on outters slightly stiff...I really like these five curves...Nice looking bow...Careful and slow here, they will move quickly...
                                        Don
                                                                                                               

[PatM]

I do  think you are greatly rushing your tiller and draw length.  With a light weight  bow and tough wood you can coast right through the ability of the stave to be corrected later.

[SLIMBOB]

Judging from the last 2...you will benefit greatly from utilizing a straight edge to get the limb shape correct. Run it along the limb while it is drawn a few inches. If one part (just outside the handle) shows no gap, and the next section has a very noticeable gap, followed by another section ( outers) the again has no gap, get the “no gap” sections to match the area that is bending harder. Do this, with the bow drawn only a short distance, the hard bending section will begin to straighten out as the flat sections start to bend. When it all matches (the gap) your tiller is right, or close. This works perfectly as I described on a straight limb (no reflex or deflexed areas) without having to think much about it. On a bow with less straight limbs, like this 5 curve, it just requires that you take the limb shape into account and compensate on the gap. Just a little common sense about it will suffice. Now, once the gap is right at a short distance, draw it a few more inches and check it again making your adjustments to keep the gap even. If you do this all the way to full draw, your tiller will be...very close. 

[bradsmith2010]

The bow should be bout 62...for that draw
27 inch draw would put less stain and allow the bow to last longer,..and be about right
I am amazed it will draw that far,, I know u have a long draw,.that stave may not be suitable,,.if u are just experimenting and don't mind if it blows,,ok,..but draw it shorter if u want it to last
    If the weight is to low at the shorter draw,,,sinew back it,,,and it will be fine,,that will give u room to even tiller

[aznboi3644]

I like 5 curves.  I agree with the others in the tiller.  The handle could work more.

It looks like it’s stacking hard the last part of the draw

[SLIMBOB]

I agree in part with Brad, but differ on the draw length.  My first question would be, do you truly need a 31 inch draw length?  Maybe yes, but consider the question.  I shot a wheel bow at nearly 30 inches, but drastically shortened that up (over time) when I began to shoot traditional. My draw length is 27 inches give or take.  Assuming a 31 inch draw, I would not go less than 64 inches on a bendy and even longer on a static handle like this appears to be.  This bow should be drawn to around 24 inches IMO.  They will break or just simply quit trying and fold over when drawn this far.  Especially when the tiller is off and the bend is concentrated in a short area.  I offer this analysis not to denigrate your efforts at all, but to help you improve as you go forward.  I have a 58 inch Osage stiff handle that Pulls 28 inches.  It took some set but not too much.  I build them longer now and they function better and dont suffer as much set inducing strain.

[bradsmith2010]

  I agree the longer bow would last longer,,or give more consistant results,,
thats why,,, when someone says,, oh I have a 31 draw how long should I make my bow,, no one says 54 inches,,
it can be done,, as we see,, but probably not gonna give a consistant success rate,,,
 I have discussed the draw with Irish before and he says he can only shoot well at that draw,,I have made alot of bows for others and to test them shot all draw lengths,, and after a bit of practice could shoot shorter or longer,,but I think some just dont like to vary their draw,,,,
  with a suitable piece of wood any draw is ok,,, but when you start to really push limit of the bow, it can cause some issues,,,or a failure that is not needed,, I tend to be a bit conservative with draw lengths on a piece of bow wood,, I just dont like to break them,, or make them take so much set they dont perform well,,  most the time I will be shooting through a chronograph as I tiller,, if the bow starts to shoot really well and is not taking set,, I stop there,,,and let the bow be a bow,, someone will like it,, or I will shoot as is,,
   I dont risk ruining a nice piece of wood,, to hit some pre determined draw,, even if its for someone else,, I will just use a different piece of wood more suitable for the intended draw,, and usually that is a bit overbuilt,, just for safety and durability,,,
    better to have it shoot a few fps slower and last a lifetime,,, than give it to someone and have it blow up becuase it was a quarter turn from stripping the threads,,,
    this bow is a nice bow and like I said amazing on the draw length,,I would just not draw it that far,, but its not my bow
   

[burchett.donald]

  Jay, gently scrape those red areas on the pic I sent...Please consider a nice layer of sinew...It's not hard to do...You will have an awesome shooter...You will also increase the poundage 5-10 lbs and have protection...Your build is begging for sinew...Would like to here you respond from all the advice given by others...What are your thoughts so far?
                                                                                                                                                              Don
                                                                                                                     





















                                                           

[IrishJay]

Don,

I did my best to even up the red areas you highlighted. I think this ones as good as its going to get. I probably won't bother with sinew on this one, as I probably won't be shooting it for long, I just need a light poundage bow to shoot while I build my left arm back up from a torn muscle.

Regarding the thoughts on bow length vs draw length, this stave was originally longer but I cracked both tips on my first attempt to flip them. So I know its not the ideal length for my draw, but I've had really good luck with this batch of elm, so I decided to push forward any how, again its only a temporary shooter until my arm heals. My next bow (stave partially roughed out) is more elm from this same tree and is going to be 74" ntm 31" draw around 50#. Hoping to be able to draw it by early summer.

[High-Desert]

The handle should flatten out a bit. Leave the inner 3rd alone for now and bring more bend to the out limbs a bit and the handle