First Proper Heat Treating Experience

[Nasr]

 So I found Marc's youtube page and found the video of how heat tempers his bow and I found out I was not doing it properly. My process would just be to try to heat limb until it brown and do it as fast as possible. So I would bring the heat gun as close as possible to the limb and it would brown within a few seconds. I tried the proper way yesterday and there was a huge difference in how the limb held its shape. I did not expect that and I got more reflex then I wanted. That was because the method I used before would not really hold all the reflex and i would lose most of it maybe 60 percent of it would be gone as soon as i removed the clamp. However when I did it this time I was shocked to see that after removing the clamp i lost maybe half an inch. So I ended up with a ridiculous amount of reflex.

[Deerhunter21]

As quick as you can? were you heat treating to keep its shape or to make it shoot better? also can you PM me his youtube channel. I need to learn how to heat treat better. also that looks like it has some major grain runnoff. is that a board bow?

[Nasr]

It has some run off towards the tips and where it tapers from the side but the back is good. Its rift sawn white oak so when you taper the sides the grain starts to run off or looks that way. White oak is really durable stuff so its no problem. Ive made bows with really bad back grain with white oak and they held together. I was doing it for both to keep its shape so it shoots better. White oak likes to take set even when tiller is good.

[Deerhunter21]

ok... i still dont like grain runnoff, no matter what wood. got a scar to remind me.

[DC]

I think you could post a link to his page. I'd like to watch it too.

[Nasr]

Yeah I get that but the issue with board bows is even with really good straight back grain you will most likely still have run off. Not always, but when you get a really nice piece of wood and then you taper it you're gonna get run off unless the growth rings are really thick.

[Nasr]

I don't want to get in trouble so I sent you a message instead.

[Badger]

   You should find 1/4 sawn lumber or rift sawn lumber with straight grain, Flat sawn lumber will seldom work for a board bow.

[Nasr]

 Steve this is a rift sawn white oak board in the picture. Idk if this pic is clear enough but this is the end of the bow.

[Badger]

  I can see it ok, you should be fine

[Nasr]

 Steve can you tell me why flat sawn boards seldom make bows? I always buy rift sawn and 1/4 sawn but because of how straight I can find the grain. I had no idea that flat sawn wasn't any good.

[Badger]

  I often buy flat sawn maple and white oak if the grain is straight enough for me to chase a ring. Easy enough to read and both maple and white oak put out a lot of very straight grain boards so not hard to find. I will usually by a 2X6 2 get a good stave out of and that will usually give me a 1/4 sawn board bow also.

[Santanasaur]

is this it? I found it on marc’s youtube page.
https://youtu.be/C-4qRIajOM8

[Nasr]

yup that's it. I didn't post it cause I didn't want to get in trouble.