Dern node

[DC]

This node is just in the wrong place. It was in the wrong place on the last bow I tried to use it on and again on this one. Can I thin this out so it will follow the bend or will it never follow the bend or maybe even break? Should I try to remove wood(?) from the inside or outside of the bend? Should I save it for a longer/shorter bow?

[sleek]

Try putting a block of wood under it and shaping it to fit the gap.

I'd like to know how you are bending that bamboo,  mine splits on the crown when I bend it to fit the curve.

[stuckinthemud]

Try putting a block of wood under it and shaping it to fit the gap.

I'd like to know how you are bending that bamboo,  mine splits on the crown when I bend it to fit the curve.

+1

[DC]

Ya mean like this? The other end is OK. I first bent this a few months ago so I can't remember why it split. Of all the boo bows I've done this is the only one that's split. I don't know what I'm doing right. I use steam or dry heat. Dry makes a tighter bend.
I'm not sure what you mean by  "putting a block of wood under it and shaping it to fit the gap". I tried heating it and clamping it into the recurve. This is all it would bend because it's too thick.

[Pat B]

You could thin it a little more then steam or boil it and then see if it will bend to fit. I wouldn't put too much pressure on it as that is the weak link in the boo.  Next time try to place the nodes so they are not in the curves.

[DC]

Maybe I should use another piece and save this one for a straight bow. Although it doesn't need any strength right in the center of the bend but it has to look reasonably good. That's why I was thinking I could sand the node off and then maybe it would bend evenly. I've never touched the nodes on the boo bows I've made so this is new ground for me. I wonder if I have a piece of scrap I could try it on. Hmmmmm.

[DC]

You could thin it a little more then steam or boil it and then see if it will bend to fit.

Would you thin it on the inside or the outside of the boo?

[PatM]

If you thin it on the inside and heat and squeeze it should be able to bend tighter.

 Flyrod makers actually flatten nodes in a vice to make them compress and flatten.

[Bayou Ben]

You can thin that boo a lot.  Thin on the inside and take down that node some on the outside.  It isn't bending much there, so you shouldn't have to worry about splinters. 

[DC]

I thinned it out and pushed it into place with the barrel of a 150 watt American Beauty soldering iron. It needs a little finessing but it's there, Thanks guys

[Marc St Louis]

That is a very low stress-point so I wouldn't worry about too much.  I would have used a small C clamp and a heat gun but you did well with what you did

[bradsmith2010]

Very nice

[Deerhunter21]

You gunna show us the bow when your done? Im just itching to know whats going on!

[leonwood]

Looks like you fixed it already What I have done a few times is cut a piece out of the middle and splice it back together (lap splice with a little wrap afterwards has never let me down). Moves the node an inch or two back and is really not a lot of work.

[DC]

Will do Deer.

Leon, I have done that on previous bows for different reason. I glue in reflex when I use a backing. I'm concerned with where the extra wood/boo goes when I reflex them. With a straight bow it's not a problem, it can just slide along, but with tight recurves the backing is kind of trapped and has nowhere to go when you reflex it. I've done the limbs one at a time to avoid that. If I'm going to have a join in the backing I like to use a short "power lam" just to reinforce the joint. One piece backing avoids all this.