White Oak board bow, Rawhide backed. 50# @28" 69.5" ntn. (update) cracked fade

[kbuggie]

I've been building and breaking bow wood for less than a year now and need some help with final tillering advice, and fade and tip shaping.

This is the second pyramidal bow I've made from a 12 foot 2x10 of well aged white oak.  Both bows have grain runoff in one limb,  but when the first bow didn't break (I used fuberglass scrim as the backing), I decided to try another from the same board, but with deer rawhide, wider limbs (2 3/8" at fades) and slightly shorter (69.5" ntn) but I planned to give it to the friend who used to pull a 31" draw.

I've got the bow to 50# @28", and 58# @31" on the tiller tree.  Weighs 692 grams. I've shot it about 150 times now at my draw around 27".  Hasn't broken and lost all hand shock when I shaped and slimmed the tips.

Now my questions.  I think I glued the deer rawhide upside down.  I roughed it up, used TB 3, and its held tight to the bow, but it's got the fuzzy whitish side facing up. So I decided to try and use a scraper on the rawhide at the handle  and I scraped through to the wood in no time.  So I know not to do that on the limbs.  So, I've slowly used a 180 grit to try to get the fuzz off for Tru oil.  Is this the right approach?  Sandpaper and patience?  Just do it right side up next time?

Tillering advice.  Sorry I don't think the pic is square as I pulled and snapped pic with other.  Right limb seems stiff near limb tips.

Also, what tool should I use to get string grooves to curve more and not put angle in string where it leaves bow?

I also felt I was done with the fades and was going to only slightly round the handle before turmoil and paste wax, but then I read the comment on rounding the back of fades in Airkah's thread, and so I took about 80 grams of wood off the handle and fades last night.  Much nicer feel after that.  Thanks PA members in advance!

[kbuggie]

Pic of grain runoff

[kbuggie]

Repost of tiller at closer to 250kb quality.  Sorry for bad pic quality.

[aaron]

looks like you may have cut across the back of the bow when making the string grooves this is not good unless there's an overlay.
About the rawhide- I have done that before! I'm not sure how best to make it look smooth, but you could do another layer on top.
To round out the string grooves, start with a narrow sharp knife and finish with sandpaper rolled up.
Tiller looks good, given the profile. You could probably scrape the mid to outers on both, you have plenty of width for safety.
Fades are a bit abrupt where they feather into the limb.

[airkah]

I agree with scraping a bit more through the mid limbs, to reduce a little bit of strain on the inner limbs.

The pyramid style might not be everyone's cup of tea, but I love the look. I also love the way it hooks at the end of the tips, not something you see everyday. I can't wait to see how it all turns out for you once its completely finished.

[0ri9ine11]

DEFINITELY no more wood removal near the handle on both sides it bends far too much right next to the handle

[bradsmith2010]

ok the rawhide is no problem,, just put desired finish on and sand,, and refinilsh,, repeat till you get the desired finish,, it will be fine,,

[kbuggie]

Thanks to all for the replies.

On the tiller, I used my crude rendition of Mr. Krewson's gizmo, but I obviously struggled at the transition from fade to limb and limb to tip.  I remember from his great you tube video he mentioned you have to estimate the proper bend in those areas.... still struggling with that.

With the tips, I went back and forth with what to do, but I thought it was okay for the string grooves to violate the back since my tips don't bend much.  Fingers crossed.  I do have a buffalo horn, and elk antler available for next time.

Thanks, Brad,  for the advice on the rawhide!

The pic below is the prior handle and fade profile, and then another pic without temporary leather wrap and after shaping with my shinto rasp.

[George Tsoukalas]

Well done. That's what the tiller should look like on a pyramid bow...rounded. Jawge

[Knoll]

Looks comfy.

[Sagebrush]

I second what George said. The widest part gets the most Bend and stress. True oil will harden up the fuzzies and then they can be sanded lightly. Then add more true oil and repeat if needed. Your bow looks great.

[kbuggie]

Thanks George, Knoll, and Sagebrush for the encouragement.   I'm trying to work on all the advice everyone's given.  Including giving tip overlays a try.  I'm battling that "am I snatching defeat from the jaws of victory" feeling by messing with the tips.  But then I decided that if I don't learn on this bow I'll be even more nervous on the next, especially if it's a purchased stave.

I'm lucky to live in the American southwest where I can walk down to numerous native American craft supply stores and choose this $20 bison horn from amongst a dozen such horns, and choose from a similar selection of deer rawhide ($90 for a good size buckskin).

I'll post pics when it's done. 

[Sagebrush]

Tips are pretty low risk.  Defeat shall not be snatched from the jaws of victory today. You got this!

[kbuggie]

I got the tip overlays added to the bow. I used Gorilla glue gel super glue, and sized the oak with regular (less viscous) super glue,10 minutes prior to gluing with 4 drops of the gel glue over the 1.75" contact area. Then I clamped each tip with 2 really small clamps

[DC]

Glue line looks great.