Author Topic: Simon & Martin's BowSwap Build Along (-; (Read 22273 times)

M2A · « **Reply #45 on:** May 15, 2019, 07:45:02 pm »

Nice progress on your bows guys. Been a fun read so far. Looking forward to the rest.

Mike

backtowood B2W · « **Reply #46 on:** May 16, 2019, 11:12:07 am »

Looking good Simon! A Pic in front of some better background would help me a lot, also if its rotated.
Couldn't make too much on your bow, too much distraction lately! but I got done a little

I worked on the inners as you suggested and raised draw length slowly.
Around 17 I had to give the lower outer a bit more bend because the upper outer started to get set.
The bow measures 31,5#@18", bh: 4", m:542g

DC · « **Reply #47 on:** May 16, 2019, 11:23:50 am »

B2W do you have a slick way of outlining the bow like that or do you just use the mouse and a steady hand?

MattZA · « **Reply #48 on:** May 16, 2019, 11:43:04 am »

Both bows are looking excellent, chaps!

Simon, once I get to the last few inches of draw I shoot it up to the final length. So, assuming the tiller is good at 25", I'll shoot maybe 30 shots at 25", then check the tiller. If it starts to lose it's shape I'll shave it where necessary. If it keeps it's shape I'll shoot another 30-40 at 25" and then check again. If it's still good, I'll give it a 15 minute rest and then start the process again at 26", and so on.

I let set be the deciding factor in my final draw length. So for example, if I'm aiming for 29" of draw, but I notice set increasing exponentially from 27", I'll leave it at that length. If it's reaching 29" without taking any set I'll normally narrow the outer tips to slowly approach that "trade off" point.

Of course, I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing, so that could all be complete nonsense

backtowood B2W · « **Reply #49 on:** May 16, 2019, 11:53:17 am »

DC: First i crop the pics, leaving more or less same space left and right the tips. Than I reduce resolution and image sice. Doing that with apple preview.

Going camping to LEGO Land with the family for 3 days! So no progress this weekend!
Gonna take my Ishi sticks with me.

DC · « **Reply #50 on:** May 16, 2019, 04:01:54 pm »

I'm talking about the black outline along the limb.

backtowood B2W · « **Reply #51 on:** May 16, 2019, 11:25:05 pm »

DC: i don´t do that with the computer. I set up a strong light on a tripod - Adjusting it in the hight allows me to make a thinner or thicker shadow of the Bow on the background. Photo taken right above the light source aligned with the centre of the bow of course.
I like to do this especially with character staves - its a bit like squeezing your eyes to get a fuzzy vision.

DC · « **Reply #52 on:** May 17, 2019, 08:23:11 am »

Quote from: backtowood B2W on May 16, 2019, 11:25:05 pm

DC: i don´t do that with the computer. I set up a strong light on a tripod - Adjusting it in the hight allows me to make a thinner or thicker shadow of the Bow on the background. Photo taken right above the light source aligned with the centre of the bow of course.
I like to do this especially with character staves - its a bit like squeezing your eyes to get a fuzzy vision.

I like the result, a nice crisp line. I was hoping to do that to my full draw pictures but it would be kind of tough to set up outside with a timer and running back and forth. Thanks

backtowood B2W · « **Reply #53 on:** June 01, 2019, 04:42:51 am »

I came underweight!!!

What did I do?
Hi all!
As I recognized that it gets more and more set, I decided to temper the belly again, also I brought it back to 3" reflex - measured from the handle.
Kept on tillering - reducing the width in the outers and a bit working fades.
But again it started getting set....
So it draws 33# at 25"now - tiller looks ok now - shot some arrows. Not bad for 33#. Tips are still very clumsy so there may some more fps.
But anyway its underweight is no option, so I have 2 possibilities to carry on.
1st: Putting on a combed Flax fiber backing, where I don't have successful results. (I always used carpenter glue, I think hide glue will be the trick)
2nd:Start a new bow: I just straightened and balanced the shape of a PLP shoot. It have some slight d/r shape as well, 63"ntn, 1" wide.
what do YOU think??
The pic unbraced shows actually the string follow and reverse, ...sorry did´t pay to much attention resizing and name it

simk · « **Reply #54 on:** June 01, 2019, 06:53:38 am »

looks nice - i still could send you some yew laminates

Edit: Do you have set in the fades too or only in the reflexed area? imho you should get a little mor bend out midlimbs? it's more the upstate but not DC style

I had a similar bow which I heat the set away again and again...

Deerhunter21 · « **Reply #55 on:** June 01, 2019, 07:27:37 pm »

Oh no! Did it break!

backtowood B2W · « **Reply #56 on:** June 02, 2019, 12:55:54 am »

@SIMK: So you suggest to glue on some yew on the belly. Like Simon said - you like it the hard way...
I compared the profile with the traced profile from the beginning. Looks like most of the set happened mid limbs in the lower limb, The upper took set right after the hump behind the fade. I measured reflex this morning: 1"
I hope the r/d experts will chime in and give some advice.
I think tempering the belly again and back it with a thin layer of combed flax will gain some draw weight.

txdm · « **Reply #57 on:** June 02, 2019, 05:37:00 am »

In theory, adding tension strength to the back could make the set worse. Sinew seems to be the only backing that can be the exception to that.

I added 3 layers of feed bag paper backing with TBIII to a bow that had set. I used a full-length strip of wood to clamp the backing under pressure while it dried in a reflex shape. The bow's draw weight increased by 3 lbs, but the set came right back after some shooting.

If I get the chance some day, I will try using a belly lam to cure set if I'm determined to keep that particular bow instead of starting over. Maybe paper just to see what happens.