first stringing

[simk]

I always struggle with first stringing.

It seems, that if i want to build a 50# bow i need to string a 60# or 70# bow when first stringing. Its just too much for a small breasted and not too tall guy like me.

Below you see my actual first stringing problems: The bow close to my feet was ruined with first stringing wrong (step-through-method and a guy who helped me in addition): ugly noise and big splinters in the back, where there is the reflex bend. Im sure it only collapsed due to wrrong frist stringing.

What can be done better?

I bought a stringing string, i think it's for recurved bows (pic 4) - would this be a good device to string bows nr. 1 und 2?
Wouldn't it be the best an most relaxed way, to just put two nouns on every tip, like elbs have?
Does someone use two pins on the wall?
How do you frist string a bow?

Thanx for help. cheers

[leonwood]

The most important thing before you first string your bow up is making sure your tiller is as good as you can get it on the long string. Make your long string as short as possible and tiller it patiently. My bows are usually almost done after I first string it up. (Most guys string up way earlier than me but for me it works)
Now if the bow is too strong for me to push pull I cut in two extra string nocks for a longer string I use as a bracer. I never use the step through method because I think loads of people mess up good bows using that method.
You really only need two tiny slots for the brace string to work. It is only 2minutes work with a rattail file and it saves you a lot of trouble. You can even use a paracord with two loops as a bracer.

[simk]

thanx leonwood! will learn to push pull and in the meantime i will cut extra nocks. how about the bracer on the pic?

[leonwood]

That brace will work fine if you have enough space above your nock grooves. I usually cut my temp nocks really high so what you can do then is just cut one extra slot. Use the padded thing for the bottom nock without the extra groove and use just the string for the other one.

[Badger]

   I think your first step is to be able to identify exactly where you are before you attempt to string it. 10# heavy is ok but 20# is too heavy. You can read your current draw weight on your long string just as if it were braced. It doesn't change much if your long string is not hanging down more than about 6". So get the tiller evened up as much as possible on the lon string and when it is reading 50# @ 24" on the long string you can brace it. I usually brace mine when it reads 50#@23" because I have a 26" draw.  I have a set up with two wheels spread apart about 8" shorter than the bow. I just push the bow down against the wheels far enough to brace it.

[George Tsoukalas]

I like 10# heavier than target but prefer 10#.
There are buildalongs on my site which delineate how I determine when the stave is read for stinging.
I'd go through it but nobody listens.
Jawge

http://traditionalarchery101.com/archer.html

[simk]

Thank you all for your warmly appreciated help. I've been learnt to first string right after floor tiller but then started to also use the long string. Regarding your posts I will be even more patient with first stringing my bows. Nevertheless stringing of strong bows is still a pain and i have to refine my tecnique - so i'm still curious about Badgers "set up with two wheels"....what kind of "wheels" and which diameter do you use?
Cheers and have a nice day!

 

[Morgan]

I’m really appreciating this info. Every bow that I’ve had take considerable set, seemed to happen right at the time I first braced the bow. My last bow is an example, pulled every bit of reflex out on brace. I will try long stringing it out to 24” next time and see how I fare. Thank you for bringing this topic up.

[DC]

Here's my stringer. I only use it for bows with big hooks. Most I use push/ pull. The arms flop back and forth so they roll out toward the end of the limbs. Just stand on the base, hook the limbs under the rollers and pull up with one arm while stringing with the other. Similar to what Badger is talking about but upside down sorta.

[George Tsoukalas]

Keep in mind if my target weight is 45# (getting old; I'm 70 y/o, thank God), the stave is around 55# at its first stringing. I used to do it by push pull but now use a stringer.

Jawge

[simk]

Thanx all for contribution.

DC: It seems, that highly sophisticated equipement is necessary to build primitive bows Very interesting. You say that you only need it for bows with big hooks. Does that mean, you dont't need it for your slight reflexed D/R-Bows? In case my stringing problems will last I'll copy your device - if you dont mind.

First im gonna try this simple stringer I found with youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCYHSSV35cc

Cheers

[DC]

Because an R/D is deflexed(half braced already) it doesn't take much effort to brace and I found I can push the string up the recurve as long as it isn't too big. I think if you can't brace it using push pull you should tiller on the longish string some more.

[George Tsoukalas]

simk, I looked at the link you posted regarding stringing your bow.

I'd be concerned about being sure the loops of the stringer are equidistant from each of the nocks.

The gentleman in the link is stringing a glass recurve. Selfbows are sensitive to not straining one limb over the other. I wouldn't use that stringing method for a wooden bow.

i made one years ago similar to this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIbP8xTWy1I

Jawge