taking it slooooow - sisal backed

[Rākau]

so This is number 3. . .

Sorry for all of the posts guys, but maybe it will pay if have advice throughout the process instead of at the end after they blow up 

Aiming for 70" ntn, 40# at 31", maybe a bit heavier depending on weight once the stave is dry, few inches longer than previous 2 and I'm really gonna work on getting the whole bow bending. . .

Is it best to steam bend while the bow is still a tad green? I need to get the nocks lined up over center.

weekend harvest!
20180624_162327 by Zachary Press, on Flickr

out of line nocks:
20180627_135714 by Zachary Press, on FlickrPress[/url], on Flickr



side profile:
What should I do with the reflex in the left limb?
should I try to heat bend a matching reflex in the right limb? or heat bend out the reflex in the left limb?
20180627_135823 by Zachary Press, on Flickr


front profile:
20180627_140016 by Zachary Press, on Flickr

[Hawkdancer]

Slooow! Is good!  It really helps to know where you are Going, so you will know when you get there!
It also helps a lot to have a mentor who will help you see where you are screwing up, and correct you just before you do!  Looks like a nice load of staves, what kind of wood?  Hope to have my first one shooting before MOJAM!  Found a mentor just a few months older than me, and real close by!  Learned a lot this week!  Thanks, Jack!
Hawkdancer

[Rākau]

Hey Hawkdancer,
unfortunately I am really struggling to find anyone in my region or even country that really does the bow building thing, there are a few out there, but not many. . . luckily I have you guys ae! hahaha

[bushboy]

I can do a mock up to show you how how I do limbs alignment if you wish?

[BowEd]

Those type bows can make very nice close to center shot bows as they are.The side view profile of your bow is good as it is to tiller also.Up to you if you want to give each limb an overall long sweeping reflex of a couple of inches at least with that length before tillering.

[Morgan]

Counterintuitive, but steam will dry the wood, so if you steam it while green it will check.

[BowEd]

I always assume knowledge of subject here with regards to the new bow maker.My fault.Reflexing that roughed out bow would be best to let it dry good first.Especially using dry heat.Otherwise it will check.I would use dry heat  for that mild of a bending using a form using a heat gun.I would let it rest at least a few days after inducing reflex if so desired for the wood to reacclimate itself good before tillering.Steam bending green wood will not check your wood though and no need to go through that process with this nice roughed out bow.You've got a great candidate there for a very nice bow for yourself.

[Pat B]

I'd seal the back with shellac. By doing so you can still steam with little chance of checking. If it were me, I'd start tillering and get to floor tiller stage, let it dry a while then work to first, low brace. Then you will know how the string tracks and make adjustments if or how needed.

[Morgan]

I always assume knowledge of subject here with regards to the new bow maker.My fault.Reflexing that roughed out bow would be best to let it dry good first.Especially using dry heat.Otherwise it will check.I would use dry heat  for that mild of a bending using a form using a heat gun.I would let it rest at least a few days after inducing reflex if so desired for the wood to reacclimate itself good before tillering.Steam bending green wood will not check your wood though and no need to go through that process with this nice roughed out bow.You've got a great candidate there for a very nice bow for yourself.

Steaming green wood won’t check it? I had a hickory sapling that was roughed out to dry. It twisted while drying so when it was off the stump about 3 weeks I thought I’d try to steam it straight. The limb that I started on was cracked from tip to 10” down the limb, only where the steam was. I assumed the heat from the steam caused rapid moisture loss there. If not, then what caused that? I apologize if what I said was incorrect.

[bjrogg]

Morgan I've had them check on me with steam also. Stave was roughed out and I thought dry enough to work. Since then I've been putting another coat of shellac on and haven't had a problem. The checks weren't that bad but I try to avoid them.
Nuka. Something else you can do while waiting for your stave to dry is build some forms or cauls for bending in recurves and straightening staves. I'm thinking your the type that's going to be hooked on this bow building and you might as well have em. You might want to rig up a hot box and something for steaming to. Lots of little things that make life easier. Oh and a nice tiller tree with a scales is really a must.
Bjrogg

[Rākau]

I can do a mock up to show you how how I do limbs alignment if you wish?

That would be great if you could bush! as long as it's no skin off you back?

Those type bows can make very nice close to center shot bows as they are.The side view profile of your bow is good as it is to tiller also.Up to you if you want to give each limb an overall long sweeping reflex of a couple of inches at least with that length before tillering.

How would you induce a long sweeping reflex BowEd? would you clamp it up similar to how one would clamp a glue up bow and then heat it? and in terms of a close to centershot, should i just choose my top and bottom limbs based on which side the string tracks?

I'd seal the back with shellac. By doing so you can still steam with little chance of checking. If it were me, I'd start tillering and get to floor tiller stage, let it dry a while then work to first, low brace. Then you will know how the string tracks and make adjustments if or how needed.

Thanks Pat, I have her a floor tiller stage at the moment, drying behind the fire place. weight has dropped from 27 oz to 21 oz in a few days. hopefully it doesn't drop too much more. once it stops dropping weight i will get her to low brace and take it from there as you suggest.

Morgan I've had them check on me with steam also. Stave was roughed out and I thought dry enough to work. Since then I've been putting another coat of shellac on and haven't had a problem. The checks weren't that bad but I try to avoid them.
Nuka. Something else you can do while waiting for your stave to dry is build some forms or cauls for bending in recurves and straightening staves. I'm thinking your the type that's going to be hooked on this bow building and you might as well have em. You might want to rig up a hot box and something for steaming to. Lots of little things that make life easier. Oh and a nice tiller tree with a scales is really a must.
Bjrogg

haha well at least I'll have something to blame my poor university grades on
good idea though, a better tiller tree was definitely next on the cards, and some cauls just to make sure I stay hooked hahaha all the goodies!

Zach

[BowEd]

NZnuka...A conservative arching form made from a 2" by 4" is all that's needed.That would give you a good 3.5" reflex.After tillering you should be able to keep at least half that with the length of bow you got there.Yes you are correct in choosing which limb to be the top for your shooting hand.
Morgan....Now you say the wood was dry before trying to take the twist out.Before you said it was green.I would say you did'nt get the wood hot enough to get the twist out of your limb.Don't know the degree of twist you are talking about either.That's not really bending either.Your talking twisting.That's completely different.That's too bad it happened to you but live and learn as they say.
I stand by green wood not cracking while steam bending because I've bent a whole bunch.Even without any shellack on the wood.

[Morgan]

NZnuka...A conservative arching form made from a 2" by 4" is all that's needed.That would give you a good 3.5" reflex.After tillering you should be able to keep at least half that with the length of bow you got there.Yes you are correct in choosing which limb to be the top for your shooting hand.
Morgan....Now you say the wood was dry before trying to take the twist out.Before you said it was green.I would say you did'nt get the wood hot enough to get the twist out of your limb.Don't know the degree of twist you are talking about either.That's not really bending either.Your talking twisting.That's completely different.That's too bad it happened to you but live and learn as they say.
I stand by green wood not cracking while steam bending because I've bent a whole bunch.Even without any shellack on the wood.

No sir, I said I roughed it out to dry. I also said it was 3 weeks off the stump. Wasn’t sopping wet, but was a stretch from being dry. I know that removing twist isn’t making a bend, but it was cracked coming off the pot. It’s neither here nor there, but it did split off the steam pot before any pressure was applied.

[BowEd]

Counterintuitive, but steam will dry the wood, so if you steam it while green it will check.

I went by this quote you made.Twists can be difficult to take out completely if so desired.As well as lateral bends on a limb.Especially hickory.Most times I live with what it is making the bow if not too extreme.I will sometimes just tweak the tips twisting a bit to get them flat and that's it.After all they are self bows not perfect store bought bows.I'm wondering how thick of wood your were steaming.
The only time I had a limb check on me was heating a limb with the heat gun when the wood was too wet yet and that was a long time ago.
In NZnukas' case here he's got a nice prospect of a bow that really does'nt need anything done to it at all to become a nice bow.

[BowEd]

NZnuka...An even more conservative form more so than this will do the job.
A couple of mine.A D/R and an all reflex form.

and a half form which I like the best