Author Topic: How fine to shred sinew  (Read 3081 times)

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Offline stuckinthemud

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How fine to shred sinew
« on: May 20, 2018, 07:47:00 am »
So, first ever piece of sinew prep. I soaked the sinew over night and pulled it apart with a pliers. I got a bunch of pieces about 4" long and a similar amount of pieces about 8" long. As i started fining the pieces they started snapping; how fine should I be going, can anyone post a picture of what the sinew should look like in the end?

Offline PatM

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2018, 08:04:28 am »
 Some think the glue won't get into the fibers unless they are very fine.  I have tested really thick pieces of sinew soaked in glue and the  glue has no trouble soaking in.  I leave sinew much thicker than most. 

Offline burchett.donald

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2018, 08:33:06 am »
Stuck,
           Don't have any close ups, maybe this will give an idea...Believe me, my wife was at work when I did this...
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison;

Offline Stick Bender

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2018, 09:43:07 am »
I shreed mine I guess I would call it medium fine there is probanly 12 to 15 strands in each of those bundles of elk sinew.
If you fear failure you will never Try !

Offline Badger

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2018, 11:00:37 am »
You mentioned soaking the sinew. I have always shredded mine dry. I don't wet it until I am ready to apply it. I think the finer you shread it the better it looks but from a mechanical standpoint I doubt it makes much difference within reason of course.

Limbit

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2018, 10:41:37 pm »
The thickness of a horse hair is what they would say traditionally, but again, it may not matter all that much so long as you lay the fibers straight and they aren't getting tangled. If they do, you'll have a lot of gaps show up as it dries.

Offline stuckinthemud

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2018, 11:54:11 am »
Thanks guys, I've now prepped 2oz; by weight, is there a rule for the amount of sinew needed? For instance is 1/3 the weight of the bow about right for the weight of sinew, eg. a 12oz bow might need 4oz of sinew??

Offline High-Desert

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2018, 02:59:38 pm »
I not sure exactly what the correct amount is, but i typically end up with about 2-3 oz on a bow, regagardless of length. The longer needs less per area, while shorter need more per area, coming out to about the same amount regardless of size. That's just what has worked for me.
Eric

Offline BowEd

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2018, 07:23:17 pm »
I'm pretty much in the same boat as high desert here in amounts of sinew.I cut away any bulbous large ends that may be on some.I like my sinew fairly fine too and apply only 3 to 4 at a time together.
While squeezing out hide glue after dipping I try to lay it down on the bow limb with no overlaps or twists etc.melding it right up to or against the previous strands well before the previous gells with 0 spaces between looking as one overall sheet.Pressing it lightly while doing this.I like my ends tapered on both ends also when I overlap them a good 1.5".
I've never gotten into combing it before applying but can see how that would give an overall nice looking even finish.
In general still to do as good a job as possible.
One thing...If it looks good immedately after completing it will look very good after drying.Applying PatM's method of wrapping with cotton strips and reheating after an hour or so will finalize the smooth overall surface too.
It's actually a fun project to do if everything is prepared well ahead of time.
PS....Be sure to size the bow limb well ahead of time also.
« Last Edit: May 21, 2018, 07:29:39 pm by BowEd »
BowEd
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Ed

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2018, 08:26:56 pm »
Can anyone else comment regarding cutting of the bulbous ends of the sinew?  I have found that even after removing all flesh perfectly that there is something about the flared ends that makes it curl up and not soak up glue.  Anyone else noticed this?

Offline BowEd

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2018, 01:42:42 am »
I cut off bulbous ends mostly to get the overall smooth effect look.Most are'nt that bad.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2018, 01:47:15 am by BowEd »
BowEd
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Ed

Offline Stick Bender

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2018, 04:09:38 am »
It can seem like a confusing process but its really pretty easy , those bulb ends if not large will smooth out with your fingers after you over lap them into the previous bundle , the trick is to get them all smoothed into each other before gelling ,I think Patm has a thread around here for his method works great ! like was said sizing the surface well is real important !
If you fear failure you will never Try !

Offline burchett.donald

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2018, 06:41:41 am »
     A longer soak period in the warm hide glue will soften/hydrate them...They will soak up the glue and become like limp spaghetti...I don't just dip and squeeze, I wait a few minutes until it all is limp...I don't presoak my sinew in water because I think it robs the sinew from soaking the hide glue...Sinew does take patience sometimes...
                                                                                                                                 Don
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison;

Offline stuckinthemud

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2018, 10:11:50 am »
So does anyone pre-make glued up strips of sinew for use at a future date?

Offline PatM

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Re: How fine to shred sinew
« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2018, 11:02:28 am »
 Guys have used strips that have popped off in one piece but it's likely not practical to make a strip and then have it match nicely with  the back of a stave.
  You'd still be doing all of the same work, just not on the final back.