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When it’s clamped down it’s not allowed to shrink. How about you soak it, stretch it. Measure it. Let it dry and measure again. THEN say it doesn’t do anything.But it will shrink.
Baugh got a measurement of 3% for sinew shrinking. Again, it comes down to the matrix combination of materials.
You need to measure the shrinkage unrestrained or stuck to a material that can actually be moved by the sinew shrinking. Sticking it to something that is stiffer than a strand of sinew has the power to move does not tell you much.
5 - Sinew with Tite Bond II or Elmer’s Max. I like these glues better than TB III for reasons i can’t explain. TB won’t magically pull a bow into reflex like hide glue but if you reverse string the bow while the glue is curing you won’t be able to tell the difference next to hide glue except by appearance and cure time. It still takes a week to 10 days to reach full potential. Once the reflex cures in i find it to be indistinguishable from hide glue and sinew as long as you reverse string the bow to cure. If you don’t it does not perform as well as hide glue.
Secure a strand to s thin slat at either end and see if it reflexes the slat. Or tack it to a couple of slim dowels pegged into a board and see if it draws them slower to together when drying. We also tend to reflex a stave rather than just applying sinew to a flat stave. That allows the backing to start off effectively shorter even if it didn't shrink at all. Looking for another natural mixture seems a like a bit of wasted effort just because we don't know exactly how something works. It's more important to know that it does.
Extracted plant fibers are actually heavy. Also within a glue matrix they are really hard to glue so that they do not move and slip within the matrix. In essence a unidirectional plant fiber backing is an attempt to make a strip of bamboo. Might as well use what's already there.
I see bamboo fiber on the yarn market. Perhaps suitable for bow designs that would be difficult with a bamboo slat?