Osage in the works (Tiller started pg 2)

[Tracker0721]

Just gonna post photos and a few questions as I make this stick bend. Got a perfect stave from Dubois in trade and this will hopefully end up as my elk bow for this year.

First question, I’m 5’ 7”, would a 66 or a 64 or even a 62” serve me best? My first was a 58 and my second a 62. Was thinking a 66 would be nice and smooth but is there much difference going to a 64”?

Goal weight is 55# at 27”. 

Stave is down to 1 growth ring and of course in the last 9” I took a bit too deep from one side and hit the next growth ring. If it ends up interfering with layout I’ll drop a growth ring. This stave is a monster!

[osage outlaw]

My vote is for 64"

[Swampman]

I think 64 inches too.  That is a nice looking stave.  Should make a great bow.

[George Tsoukalas]

64" ntn. Jawge

[Parnell]

What are you thinking for your handle and fades?

[Tracker0721]

Stiff handle, I always do 4” and 2” fades. Dunno why. I shoot split finger, any other layout I should try?

[Selfbowman]

66ntn.  Is my vote . Nice stave by the way.  Arvin

[Pappy]

Nice looking stave, I like 64 or 66 n-n, either will work, just remember longer is always safer. I usually do 4 inch handle with 1 1/2 fads, like you don't know why, little more working limb I guess. Look forward to seeing it come along.
 Pappy

[Badger]

  I agree with Pappy, I am 5'7" also with a 27" draw. A few years ago I went up from mostly 64" bows to 66" bows.

[Parnell]

Generally I do 4" and 2" fades...I've come to really like longer fades.  I started shooting three under and am toying with the idea of raising the rest on my shelf with the adjusted nockpoint, so the one I'm working on I gave myself a little room at 5".  Sounds like a good plan, it's a beauty of a stave.

[Tracker0721]

Had to put my stuff down and walk out... that bit of a ring violation was right in the way so I picked the next biggest ring down, 4 rings. The 3 in between were almost paper. Got past the knots, last half, there’s no knots or anything but for some reason on a swipe it pulled up splinters and they’re 2 rings down. Plenty of wood still but it was rather upsetting. I’ll go workout, maybe play some video games, and see if I’m in the right zone.

Stupid trying to peel off a longer swipe just because it seemed like smooth sailing and I was excited to get it rough shaped. Now I gotta chase a less than preferable ring! Haha oh man. The joys of primitive archery.

[Tracker0721]

Few rings down but she’s all laid out. Only one spot has me a bit concerned but I think it’ll still bend fine.

1 5/8” at the fades
Hair over 1/2” at nocks(looks aweful skinny at 1/2”)
1” handle

4” stuff handle and 2” fades

Thinking of roughing to a bit more then 1/2” thick? Might go a bit thicker.

[Pat B]

If I may suggest...leave the handle area wide and the tips wide. You don't need either shaped to tiller your bow out to low brace and you can make alignment adjustments by shifting the handle or one tip or both tips to align the string down the middle.

[Tracker0721]

That sounds smart to me sir! I’ll be making a tillering gizmo tomorrow and roughing out. Should I steam the handle(has a big bend) once I get it to brace or once floor tillered?

[BowEd]

Tracker0721.....I can remember my first year with osage and chasing rings.Made the mistake of trying very thin ringed staves.Frustrating getting to the end and then violating it.Doing it over again.Made sure I had deep staves then.I found out too then the rings are wider at the base of the tree.I then started at the thinner area first and then as I went the rings got thicker for the home stretch.Good looking stave and good luck with your build.