Cut in shelf questions.

[Morgan]

I’ve not made a bow with a cut in shelf before and the prospect is kind of daunting to me. I got the bark shucked off of my next victim and I think I will make a cut in shelf on it. I would love to know how you guys that do this lay out your handle section. Most of my bows are 1.5-1.75” limb width with a 4” handle and 2” of fades. Would I just increase my fade length and cut the shelf in there? Also, how long to make the window. Anything else y’all can think to add that I need to know would be great. Pics would be awesome too.

[osage outlaw]

I use to not like a cut in shelf.  I would build a shelf up with leather.  I tried a cut in shelf once and really liked.  I use a hacksaw to rough cut it and then finish it up with rasps and files.  The key to making it look good is having smooth rounded transitions.  I don't like square blocky shelves or handles.   

[Jim Davis]

I made cut in shelves on the first two or three bows I made more than 20 years ago, because I thought they should be like store-bought bows. I don't want any kind of a shelf. The arrow flies fine when I use the first joint of my index finger for a rest. I'm getting a little snooty about not wanting to cut a window in a handle.   

[Mesophilic]

Be careful if you cut the shelf, it's real easy to over do it.   I prefer to use files and a farriers rasp, and take my time.  Too much work up to that point to screw up a perfectly good stave.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

When I do a cut in shelf I just leave the handle a bit deeper and a bit wider by about 1/4” where I intend to put the shelf. That extra width allows the arrow to still be held but not have to cut too deep into the handle. Anymore I “cut” in the shelf with a round rasp. Then make the shelf to fade transition with a ferrier rasp. Te round rasp lets me get deep enough to hold the arrow and I don’t have that groove or edge to remove as it’s already done.

Kyle

[Selfbowman]

I cut my shelfs to center of the bow but not past center. I come up 1-1/4" from center .i also have a 10 inch handle. I use my band saw to cut the shelf. I like to have at least 1-1/2" thick handle section. I don't cut the shelf till the bow is tillered. And yes Jim I know it's not primitive but they shoot better!
Had to many pros tell me so to believe differently. Arvin

[simson]

There is no good reason for a cut in shelf, I don't like them. No primitive bow had a cut in shelf.

make your handle narrow (there are a way more advantages) and glue on a little piece of shaped leather if you need an arrow rest.

[Selfbowman]

Simon bring your selfbow to the world IBO shoot in Va. next summer and see what happens. Arvin

[Louie]

At what draw weight would a cut in shelf become dodgy? I've heard of bows breaking at the shelf area. I do like a shelf and figure if I retain the same width next to the shelf as the handle would've been without one, then it shouldn't be any weaker than what the handle would've been in the first place. I could be wrong, I am only a novice.

[barebo]

When I built and posted my first few bows back in '99 - early 2000, I had made locator grips with palm swells and cut in shelf. I took a Lot of heat for doing that from the die hard traditional / primitive bowyers. I usually had a fairly beefy handle section and only cut deep enough to support the diameter of the arrow.

I see a lot of bows now with the same grip I made long ago, and a cut in shelf in over 70 bows hasn't caused a failure as yet.

The beauty of making a bow is freedom of choice in design - length, width, draw weight, finish, string type, recurve, flatbow, ELB, and on and on...........

If you want to cut in a shelf - why not? If it doesn't work for you, there are plenty of other options. It's Your Bow.

[PatM]

Simon bring your selfbow to the world IBO shoot in Va. next summer and see what happens. Arvin

 Irrelevant to the subject.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I'm not "Joe" primitive. I simply love wooden bows, just that easy to understand. I suggest to make your fades no less than 2" long, that gives you ample room and plenty of security when you cut you shelf in. 

[Marc St Louis]

I don't like them for myself but have made a few on request.  I found that for a cut-in shelf the total handle/grip area had to be lengthened by some 2" or more as opposed to how I usually make my handles.  That means that either you have to lengthen the bow or shorten the working limb length

[Badger]

  I would guess about 60% of my bows have a cut in shelf, as Mark says you have to lengthen the handle and fade area so sacrifice some working limb or are forced to tone down an otherwise radical profile. I have had a few failures over the years from cutting in shelves where the bow split from the fade right to the center point of the cut in. Very few percentage wise but it has happened.

[Jim Davis]

Here's another can of worms: I think it's counter productive to carve a recurve-type handle on a "primitive" long bow. It's harder to shoot and the only tip of the hat to "primitive" is that it's made of wood. Ben Pearson mass marketed factory made bows like that.