Author Topic: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas  (Read 95190 times)

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Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #60 on: April 05, 2018, 02:37:03 pm »
We straighten the tips more over the stove.

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #61 on: April 05, 2018, 02:38:43 pm »
We glue down and secure the side piece on each limb...opposing sides.  We lash it just to look at it.  Then we work the limb side a bit so they mate up nicely, then glue it with hide glue.  Later the edges are worked down so that it blends right in and you would hardly know its there.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2018, 10:24:37 pm by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #62 on: April 05, 2018, 02:51:16 pm »
Small gaps like on the side pieces can be filled with TB commercial hide glue.  For the important hide glue for the back sinew we use the hand made stuff.

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #63 on: April 05, 2018, 02:53:56 pm »
We finish the other bow handle.  These 3 sets of handle lashings you see are to secure it for added insurance so that the splice doesn't come apart while were working on the bow, and so that there is even less possibility that it will pull apart when the back sinew starts to dry the bow into reflex.

I have been pulling apart a lot of sinew to get ready for the upcoming step of sinewing the back.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2018, 10:26:08 pm by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #64 on: April 05, 2018, 02:58:24 pm »
We roughen up the back of the limbs all the way out to the tips to prepare it for sinew.  We go in between the handle sinew wraps and even file it slightly, so that the back sinew will want to stick.  We don't use alcohol or acetone or anything to prep it, we do however try not and touch it so our hands to not contaminate it. 
« Last Edit: April 05, 2018, 10:28:45 pm by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #65 on: April 05, 2018, 03:33:00 pm »
The big day arrives for the back sinew to be applied.  By the time i arrive Tom had already done his bow earlier that morning.  Next we do mine.  3 layers total.  The bow is strapped over a board into deflex and tied off at the tips.  For sinew soaking, Tom prefers NOT to put it in water, but to lay it in bundles between two damp towels overnight.  It is fully hydrated but not over hydrated.  When you squeeze it no water drips from it and your finger is left just barely damp. 

We have hide glue already warmed up on the double boiler.  The hide glue is hot to the point its almost too hot to touch, it gels pretty quickly when its applied.  We size the bow one limb at a time right before the first sinew goes on.  He dips the sinew bundles in the hide glue then light wipes them off to leave some glue on.  He doesnt work it into each strand with his fingers or anything, at least not to the extent that i have done when doing my sinew/wood bows with TB3 wood glue.  Obviously it wont matter, as Tom is not one to take short cuts.

My sinew bundles are not so nice an uniform as his are, so they don't go down quite as smooth, he says that wont matter.  He flattens them to cover the entire width of the limb, then overlaps the next section 3-4" over the first.  The last layer is essentially built up down the middle, left a bit higher and narrow.  Out of all the work we have done so slowly and carefully up to this point he is working super fast here.  He explains that with the gelling of the glue there is not time to go slower, or for any delicate work like using a comb or such.  The overall process takes him less than 10 min.  He is very adimant about doing it this way...he does not like a cold joint(where you come back later and apply the hide glue over already hardened glue). Its thick and messy, but it should lay down and flatten out as it dries.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2018, 10:37:40 pm by 240m3srt »

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #66 on: April 05, 2018, 03:34:39 pm »
.....

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #67 on: April 05, 2018, 03:36:11 pm »
......

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #68 on: April 05, 2018, 03:39:50 pm »
Here is my bow freshly sinewed next to Toms.  If youve been following along, its the flatter(less deflexed) and longer of the two that we are building for me.  You can see the difference between mine and his, partly because his glue has dried out a bit more and flattened.  And partly because his sinew piles were more uniform in length and better organized than the ones i provided.  Again he assures me this is aesthetic and mine will function just fine.  The bows will dry for about a month before removing them from the form they are strapped down to.  We will do my other bow tomorrow hopefully.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2018, 10:39:46 pm by 240m3srt »

Offline DC

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #69 on: April 06, 2018, 10:32:14 am »
Why are they tied into deflex? Most sinew bows I've seen are pulled into reflex to dry.

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #70 on: April 06, 2018, 04:50:49 pm »
DC-Tom doesnt like them reflexed.  Says they will still pull into a bit of reflex after talking them off the boards anyhow.  But they will be easier to string, and will be less likely to debrace after the shot when the string comes back forward.  Maybe ill experiment with letting them reflex a bit more on future hornbows that i build.

Today we sinewed my second bow.  Time to let it dry.

Offline GlisGlis

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #71 on: April 07, 2018, 04:09:06 am »
cant wait for the sinew to cure.
this is a super interesting thread  :OK

Offline Oglala Bowyer

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #72 on: April 07, 2018, 01:45:15 pm »
It looks like both bows have all the layers of sinew on already. Is this true?  Some people will add a layer and wait a few days before another is applied and continue this until they have 5-6 layers. How many layers have you put on?

Offline NorthHeart

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #73 on: April 08, 2018, 11:19:16 am »
Oglala- yes both my horn bows already have all the sinew applied, 3 layers total, overlapping at the ends.  Im told this should be enough for a 40-50# bow, and by adding more layers we risk having a super heavy draw weight.  Tom prefers to do all layers at once so that they adhere appropriately and the glue from one layer absorbs right down into the next.  This means we have to work fast, and the sinew job isn't as pretty as some iv'e seen where people do multiple layers one at a time, or slowly apply each strand.  I guess we will see how it turns out when its dried. 

Since i choose to use Toms help from the beginning, i wanted to complete these bows using as much of his advice as possible.  I know that it can be frustrating to a mentor whenever an apprentice wants to do something his own way that he has no experience with, like these horn bows.  One of the issues he had was that my sinew was not prepared as neatly as his, so the completed sinew job was a little less nice(he was fighting tangles with mine) than on the bow he was making for a customer(the third bow in some of the pics).  However, in my own defense, I never realized that there was a better, neater way to process sinew into more organized strands like his.  Now i do. So if the sinew back doesn't turn out as good as it could have we know why.  He did the best he could using his method and my poorly organized sinew bundles.  He does however leave each bundle where its obvious he layered them, says that's normal on his bows. 

There is another question i have regarding sanding down the sinew.  Tom never sands his, but as previously mentioned his final layers usually look a bit nicer than mine. I personally have sanded sinew on my wood bows down so that it looks nicer and applies more even stress on each limb.  I know that sanding through sinew probably somewhat reduces its benefits, but what i'm referring to are the outer layers...or somewhere where its vastly uneven and thick.  Also, i will not hesitate to add a strip of sinew in where there is a void after the fact.  But i mainly use TB3, and am still a novice to hide glue.  Ill be interested in looking at how others apply their sinew on horn bows. 

I pick up both bows from Toms place tomorrow as i depart for Montana.  I will post pics on how they look as the sinew dries and flattens down to the bow more.

Offline loefflerchuck

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Re: 240's sheep horn bow build with Tom Lucas
« Reply #74 on: April 09, 2018, 11:17:31 pm »
I'm going to give this build-a-long a A+. This is the best step by step I have ever seen for these bows. I'm not going to question someone's methods just because I do it another way. I will say, if you want a smoother sinew application you can use a comb to comb all the fibers straight before dipping it in sinew. If need be you can use the comb while laying it on the back too. One of the reasons I don't apply all the sinew at one time is I use 3 to 4+ ounces of dry processed sinew( 8 layers). When this much sinew dries it will draw up into canyons on the back. I try to do it in 3 applications over 3 weeks.
 I saw someone question the deflex application. This will decrease the early draw of the bow but I have read an old accounts of this method being used on old plains bows. I can not remember the exact region. I would need to go back and find this info.
 Nice work! This will help anyone in the future make one of these bows on the first try.