Australian Pine, Sheoak, Casuarina, Staves

[kbear]

I couldn't find much information myself on the use of Sheoak being used for bows, excepting a few second-hand "I know this guy that said" type references. Thought I like to give it a go.

Opportunistically, I harvested  a 7' log of straight, twist free, branch free Casuarina log last week. I found mixed reports on the splitting of this wood, from "difficult to split", "natures plywood", "heavily interlocking grain", to just a one or two vague comments that stated that it split well. After my last incredible waste of time with chainsaw-split Ironbark logs that had already been de-barked (looked straight, twisted up real bad as they dried, though it is difficult to imagine splitting Ironbark any other way) I thought I'd give splitting the log a go anyhows.....



The log (roughly 11" at the base tapering to 8") split well, using a small sledge hammer, wedges, and a hatchet. There was a little resistance due to some interlocking grain, and a slight twist developed in each stave as they were split out, but for the most part the experiment was a success.

So, now I have these staves......

Some advice from the brains trust? What is the BEST option for them noting the twist? I am happy to wait as I have plenty to keep me busy.....



..... but they too can wait if the staves take priority.

Should I remove the bark, rough them out and strap them to a board?
Should I leave them season full term as is and deal with the twist later?

[k-hat]

That's interesting wood, looks very elm-ish.  Do you know anything of it's properties? 

This time of year the bark ain't comin off easy, my personal opinion would say leave it and let it season, bark-on will help preserve the back.  The most I would do, if it was me, would be take a draw knife to the sides and maybe belly and square it up as much as possible to promote even drying.  If it is propeller twist, I wouldn't worry about it unless it was extreme, but then still wouldn't deal with it until close to final dimensions.  It looks like something that may like tempering, so that would be a good time to handle the twist as well. 
A little twist is only cosmetic and I think enhances character (I mean, if we want dead straight and dead flat wood, we r in the wrong business!!).  All that assuming you're not in a hurry!!

Then again, since it is experimental you may take one and reduce, quick dry, and get a bow out of it to see if you just have pretty firewood.   

I look forward to seeing how these turn out!

[kbear]

I am pretty sure this one is Allocasuarina Torulosa, going by the seed cone (fruit). Related to other Casuarina Esquisetifolia, known as Ironwood, and Beefwood. It has an SG of close to 1. It has a very Oak-like grain pattern, thus the name Sheoak, and Forest Oak.

I have just read that it has the largest contraction along the grain of 12% (smokes) and care needs to be taken when drying.

We are coming into summer here in Australia, and it's going to get (has been) hot. 46°C (114°F) here just two days ago (Sydney).

Maybe I should bind it all back into a log to slow the drying down?

[Hawkdancer]

Sounds like a bit of a challenge!  Good luck, and keep us posted!  Nice pics of the staves, btw.
Hawkdancer

[kbear]

Here's some pics of the grain.....





What sort of wood does it look similar to, to you all?

[Limbit]

I use casaurina all the time in Taiwan since it grows all over the beach here. The stuff checks like crazy. That could have to do with the moisture in the air here. If you already shaped your bows, watch for checking occurring just about anywhere and fill it with cyano superglue immediately if something starts. To be honest, I doubt you will be able to avoid checking, but since it checks along the grain, it isn't really that big of a deal. The stuff is damn near indestructible in tension like elm, but I normally see checking developing along the edges of the bows I've made out of it. That is most likely because I normally use limbs with a high crown and I should probably be doing more of an HLD out of them rather than a more flat belly. You can heat treat it as well, but again, it will check right in front of your eyes if you do no matter how gentle you go about it. It splits easier than most any other wood I've split of the density it is. Besides that, it is definitely a bow wood.

[kbear]

Hmmm...... checks badly........ check. Thanks for that info Limbit. I think leaving them to season as staves might then be the best course of action. If they check, when they check, I will just cut the ends off. I will give them another seal, and move further down the stave also. I will give them a good long period to season too. Make sure they are proper dry when I start working them......

[k-hat]

What sort of wood does it look similar to, to you all?

Looks like the sort of wood I want to try out!!

It actually does look like a cross between American elm and oak.  I have a mystery wood that looks a lot like that, but it's nowhere near 1SG. 

Didn't realize you were in the Southern Hemi.  If you can seal up the back really well, and the bark slips off easy as is typical in summer, may be a good idea to debark now.

[DC]

Hmmm...... checks badly........ check. Thanks for that info Limbit. I think leaving them to season as staves might then be the best course of action. If they check, when they check, I will just cut the ends off. I will give them another seal, and move further down the stave also. I will give them a good long period to season too. Make sure they are proper dry when I start working them......

If you put them in a plastic bag you can slow the drying and therefore minimize the checking. Keep in mind that you have to check them regularly, like daily, for the first bit. Some days the bag will be full of moisture. I take the stave out, turn the bag inside out and put the stave back in. I managed to find a big roll of 8" poly tube that works well. I cut the tubes a couple of feet longer than the stave and leave the ends open. This allows for some circulation. Seal the ends and back(if you debarked) with shellac. Stand back and wait a year or two. Make sure it never stays damp in the tube or it may mildew. If you need more info you can Google drying Ocean Spray or Plum. They are both difficult to dry. Good luck.

[Hamish]

Hey Korey, Nice work there bud. You will prob' be alright with the bark on, and inside. I usually take the bark off as it dramatically cuts down on insect damage, and coat the back and ends with cheap white pva(at least 2 coats to be sure). Even if you rough them out and strap them to a form it might be advisable to coat the whole stave in PVA, especially if you have been going through +40 degrees C, weather. Even with the whole stave sealed it will still lose moisture, but just more evenly.
 You got to be careful with plastic bags in an Australian summer, especially if its a hot and humid time of year because of mold. Check daily as DC mentions and turn the bag/sheeting inside out each time.

I can see some really nice bows coming out of those staves. Once again nice work.

[kbear]

I want to use the first layer of sapwood below the cambium as the back. PVA glue is not an option here cos I like to keep everything organic.  I don't mind using PVA glue to seal the ends, as I have done here, just not on the finished product. Shellac however....... Hmmmm. Thanks DC.How easily is Shellac removed? Can it simply be cleaned off with denatured alcohol/methylated spirits?

My profession has me away from home a lot, so a set-and-forget method is needed.

I would prefer to leave the bark on whilst the staves dry, but, you mentioned insect damage Hamish. These are some scrappy bits I tossed outside til my "green bin" is empty.



I picked a piece up, and little black beetles went scurrying everywhere. You can see three in the bark there. I have identified these as African Black Beetles. The adult version of what is known here as curl grubs. I am not sure if these little blighters themselves do damage like the grubs, but I am taking no chances......

Option A: Remove Bark, Shellac Back (provided Shellac can be removed)
Option B: Spray staves with natural insecticide, Pyrethrum

(The staves will remain indoors, in my garage)

Which of the two options do you recommend?

[Hawkdancer]

Kbear,
If you got 3 adults, chances are 99:1 you will have grubs!  If you don't already have them.  I think I would both treat with the pyrethrum and remove the bark, then apply shellac sealer.  I think it will come off with mineral spirits.  Should smother whatever eggs or larvae already there as well.
Hawkdancer

[Limbit]

Mate, the bark will pop right off the stuff after it dries out and the only bugs that seem to like it are moths. They won't lay their eggs on split staves like that in my experience with it.  They go for logs. Not sure why, but maybe it offers more protection since their larva take years to develop get as big as a pinky finger. We have just about every wood eater imaginable over here and nothing else touches the stuff.  I've sealed every piece I ever cut immediately and thoroughly after cutting in the winter and they all check. I've tried just about every sealant I could buy. I wouldn't worry so much about that. Just keep the checks in the center when you make the bow and don't let them run off the side. There are MANY Casaurina species, so it is hard to extrapolate too much between here and there as I am sure the species there is a bit different. The wood here tends to have a much darker heartwood. Looks like meat, but the wood you have is clearly some sort of Casaurina. You can also try some Acacia Confusa and blackbutt eucalyptus If you are in OZ. Acacia confusa is naturalized over here and it seems to make an excellent bow wood apart from it taking a bit more set than most bowers would want. Looks amazing too although it has the same curing issues Casaurina has.

[Hamish]

 I have used she oak, not for bows yet , but for carved bowls. The stuff I had did have some sort of pin hole borer in them.
 Nearly all trees sapwood are susceptible to insect damage, especially if the bark is left on. Taking the bark off  denies insects a hiding place, no where to lay eggs. If some insects do manage to get in you will be able to notice the damage in the early stages, it gives you a better chance of doing something about the problem before its too late. Some people get lucky, and assume they don't need to do anything special. Other people can do the same thing and get bugs. A lot comes down to season, location and climate.

Take the bark off, spray/paint some pyr' if you want, let it dry. Mix up a thick batch of garnet/orange shellac and whack on at least 3 coats. I prefer 2-3 coats of PVA as to me it does a better job, than shellac, but more coats of shellac will get you there as well. Both shellac and PVA can be easily removed without damaging the wood underneath with a sharp cabinet scraper. Methylated spirits will remove shellac but it would be much slower, messier, and you would go through a lot of it.

[DC]

Yes you can remove shellac with alcohol. It's a bit of work and like Hamish says it  takes a lot of alcohol. Both internally and externally .