Author Topic: Black oak stave  (Read 3208 times)

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Offline bootboy

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Black oak stave
« on: December 20, 2017, 01:14:07 am »
Hey everyone!
I've have had some black oak seasoning 2010. I was a half log that was so beauty and had so much possibility that I just could not bring myself to split it into staves. I'd pass it anytime id go into my bed room often forgetting that it was there. but every few weeks or months id start staring at it again. Reading all the knots and fine lines in the bark ( I left the bark on it the whole time)
 
  I'd think this would easily make three good staves. This one a holmegaard, this one a pyramid, this one....No no you should make some plain longbows but show off all your combined knowledge and experience and really make the lord of bows. Then I'd change my mind and get scared.  I'd say it probably would split the wrong way and that I would at least ruin one of the the 3 or even 4 possible staves.  I'm sure a lot of you all have some wood like this.

 Well finally I just gritted my teeth hard and pulled out my machetti. I figured for such an occasion I'd need to do something special.  So I cut my arm and bled on the blade and the wood. I don't know what it was supposed to do but whatever, it made me feel better about the process. I put the wood on the bench and smacked the machetti into the end of the stave I ended up splitting out three awesome staves. I was surprised to see how  this wood changed after 7 years.  It isn't the normal medium quality wood, that lets a chisel or drawknife slide into it as well. Now the blade has to show respect to the wood. Its harder, tougher, and smells much sweeter. I've chosen to make the first into one of my absolute favorite designs, the Powhatan longbow from volume 1 of whichever encyclopedia of native bows. I think that the original was made of mulberry, and so the stresses are different. So the cross section should meet the demand. The the original has a rounded belly and curved back.
 The stave is 5" longer then the Powhatan's dimensions. I've chosen to rough it out that way.  It means I can make a heavier bow too.
 
So after all those words, my question to you fine gentlemen would be what would the best cross section be for Black oak.
 
« Last Edit: December 20, 2017, 02:24:10 am by bootboy »
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Offline joachimM

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2017, 03:10:10 am »
red oak group ==> rectangular or trapezoidal with trapped back.
IMHO not the best wood for this design. Better for flatbow or triangular flatbow (rather not call those "pyramids". Whoever started to use that term clearly never saw an actual pyramid).

Offline Pat B

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2017, 08:28:49 am »
I agree with Joachim. If you are unfamiliar with tillering a bow I'd say make it long and go SLOW. 
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline mullet

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2017, 08:50:17 am »
If it's the same Black Oak we have down here, then I agree with the other gentlemen. It will make a bow but more sluggish then hickory. I'd make it wide and flat.
Lakeland, Florida
 If you have to pull the trigger, is it really archery?

Offline bootboy

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2017, 10:29:41 am »
Oh beautiful, I hadn't expected to have the question answered so fast.

I've built longbows from red, black and swamp oak (as well as pretty all the usual wood minus osage). I usualy make them about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" wide. With a flat belly and rounded sides. I Dont really know if its possible to have a rounded belly on oak. I'm sure its possible, I just haven't been able to pull it off. Usualy it fails from chrysalis is that case. But I haven't done up a round bellied bow for 7-8 years.
I guess the best way to get the answer I want is: Is oak a wood that favours tension more of compression.
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Offline bootboy

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2017, 10:32:14 am »
JoachimM!
Thanks mate!
knapp 'um if you got 'um

Offline Pat B

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2017, 10:53:55 am »
Most woods are stronger in tension than compression. Trapping the sides in favor of the belly will help compensate.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bootboy

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2017, 10:32:54 pm »
Thanks PatB!
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Offline bootboy

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2018, 06:27:25 pm »
Holy Cow! Why did I ever put down the draw knife. I forgot how amazing it is making a bow.
 Alright so heres the update. I've the bow strung and bending its 73" tip to tip. 1 1/2" at the handle tapering at midlimb to 3/4" at the nock, the pin nocks are each an inch long.  Its mildly trapezoidal (wider belly) flat sides and a crowned untouched back.. I have it to 20" with a 1/4" brace height. (I hope that makes since. It isn't strung to the 6" shooting brace yet, however the string is really tight.) Only a guess at the draw weight 70-75#  Im having trouble here as its starting to stack really badly at this point. Would that be due to the trap cross section?
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Offline bootboy

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #9 on: January 05, 2018, 09:12:27 pm »
how do I upload my photos?
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Offline joachimM

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Re: Black oak stave
« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2018, 05:08:53 pm »
Upload pictures: below the message box there's a text "attachments and options". Click and follow the instructions.

As for stacking: I guess it isn't stacking at that short draw length and long bow length, you're just reaching your draw weight limits  ;)