Bow for Upstatenybowyer (Bad news pg 3)

[gfugal]

Since the bow I was making in the Fred Arnold Bow Trade didn't end up working I thought I would give a second shot at this. Hopefully, this doesn't break as well. We'll see. But Upstate deserves a bow since he's been so patient with me. I didn't want to have people worry about waiting for me in the trade since I don't think I'll get this done anytime soon, especially with the holidays. I'm currently working on a maple stave I got from Springbuck. It had some serious twists that needed fixing to I steamed them out as best I could. I also recurved the tips slightly. The stave started out with a lot of natural reflex. What you see now is how much was left after I deflexed it a bit. I'll post my progress and updates on here. Stay tuned throughout the coming months.

[gfugal]

Here's The method I used to recurve the tips. I just boiled them for like 40 minutes then clamped them into my form here. I didn't want the full curve so I only clamped halfway through the bend.

[Pappy]

Looks like a good start.
 Pappy

[PatM]

Worth noting I had to  proceed with plan B. Unusual limb failure at 33 inch draw.  Flew a little too close to the sun with my design.

[upstatenybowyer]

Hey thanks buddy! No rush. It's all a learning process anyway. 

I like the Icarus reference PatM. If I remember correctly, the old Nintendo game involved a bow and arrow? 

[gfugal]

So despite my multiple trials of steam bending there was still some twist in a limb. Inspired by another thread I started (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,62137.msg869977.html#msg869977) I made a 2x4 wrench to help apply torque. Also instead of using a steam box, a pot with tinfoil, or a garbage bag which I was using before I was inspired by this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50uXPPt8-VI to use some plastic sleeve bags. I happened to have one that was storing a poster for my physics project, but you can get them off amazon. It looks like this.

The benefits are: it's not baggy so it's easier to work with, it can be any length you need it to be, and it's clear so you can see how your bending looks inside the bag. HUGE improvement to the black trash-bags I was using since I couldn't see how much it was bending, and miles ahead of the steam-box since you can manipulate it while it's still in the steam.

Anyway here's my set up. I have a steamer with a tube, that I just tape into the bag then tape the bag shut around the bow, but If you don't have one I'm sure you can improvise one out of a pot of boiling water somehow, although less mobile.



These next photos show you how bad the twist is, and what it's like after fixing it.

[NorthHeart]

Gfugal, thanks for posting your method thats really cool. 

You guys that use steam or boiling, do you ever have issues with the wood checking?  I know steam supposedly pushes moisture out of the wood(NOT into it), but i have had a couple issues with my limited steam experience where the wood checked.  What about boiling does that seem to work better or worse?

[upstatenybowyer]

Cool method man.  Lookin' good! 

[gfugal]

Gfugal, thanks for posting your method thats really cool. 

You guys that use steam or boiling, do you ever have issues with the wood checking?  I know steam supposedly pushes moisture out of the wood(NOT into it), but i have had a couple issues with my limited steam experience where the wood checked.  What about boiling does that seem to work better or worse?

Yeah that has been a thing I've worried about with this bow since I have boiled and steamed the heck out of it. But trust me, it needed it. Luckily it hasn't' checked at all, but it has had a lot of the moisture driven out if it. I'm sure waiting several days to a week should return it to normal moisture levels so you can tiller it, but I'm not sure. You would have to ask someone more experienced.

This bow didn't get any checking, but a honey locust bow I was working on before did develop checks. I only steamed that one, nut I imagine boiling and steaming are the same, since it's the heat that drives out the moisture. So I guess it depends on the wood. I've heard that applying a coat of TB3 seals the wood against moisture leaving in these situations just like it does when you're seasoning a stave. I have been meaning to buy some more but I only have a bit left so I haven't tried this yet personally. I wish there was a cheaper waterproof coating you could put on other than TB3 that can withstand the temps and moisture of boiling/steaming. Anyone know of anything else?

[NorthHeart]

I too have heard of coating the wood but they suggested a clear coat like urethane wood finish or shelac.  Hopefully someone else with more experience can chime in.

[gfugal]

Worth noting I had to  proceed with plan B. Unusual limb failure at 33 inch draw.  Flew a little too close to the sun with my design.

Haha I don't think any limb failure is unsual at 33 inches. I appreciate your efforts though. Even if you could just get it to 30 i think I'll be good. I calculated a 32 inch draw but have never had a bow that can actually draw 32 inches to test it out. 28"is definitely too short but I manage so maybe 30 will be long enough. But if your still up for the challenge by all means try for 32 again. Not going to lie I look forward to getting a bow from you, if that is still an option. It would be a nice extra benefit for finishing this one and sending it to upstate.

Hey thanks buddy! No rush. It's all a learning process anyway. 
Cool method man.  Lookin' good! 

Hey upstate thanks! I wish i was as fast as you. You've built like 6 since I've started this one haha. I know you probably don't need another bow since you're so good at making them yourself, but thanks for entertaining me. This process is more for my growth and experience and I'm glad your still willing to accept one, despite it taking so long. I'm busy whithout much space or time to work on it but it's good to have someone expecting it as motivation, so I apologize that this is such a slow process.

[gfugal]

I've got the bow on the long string and bending about 4" of tip movement. Once I get it bending more than 8 inches, I will see If I can brace it. I feel this is the slowest part of tillering and the hardest for me to get through, because you have to remove a lot of wood to see any change, yet you don't want to move too fast either. I find that once I get it braced things move quicker for me. Any advice on the tiller so far?

[simson]

I cannot see some pics!??

[gfugal]

Sorry about that. I struggle sometimes with the privacy settings on my pictures. There was another picture in the original post that I realized wasn't showing either.

[stuckinthemud]

That's coming along nicely!