heat treat or not?

[jeffp51]

For quite some time I have been trying to make a bow for my neighbor from some wood he let me cut from his lot.  The wood is Siberian elm and I would say it isn't as good as some of the other woods I have worked--In fact it has taken me several tries to get it to this point the first attempt was rawhide backed and mostly heartwood.  On it I discovered that the wood doesn't like to heat bend much--especially when taking out twists and alignment.  On the first try the recurved tips pulled out of alignment, and since it was already backed-- and I was hearing scary ticks, I put it in the corner of shame and tried again. 

The second bow I tillered out to 26" and went to check my neighbor's draw weight again before I finished it up--only to discover he likes to draw out to 30"!  I tried to shorten the handle and do everything I could to get 4 more inches of draw--which I did, but after shooting it in, I noticed the belly starting to chrysal.

So third time's the charm.  I added about 3 inches and started a little wider.  It is tillered out to 47# @ 30", but it feels like that is all she has.  It started to take some set the last inch or so.  I started with 2" of reflex and have about 1" left after the stave rests.

I am debating heat-treating and putting a little reflex back in, but I don't know if that will overstress the back or the belly if I try it.  I don't know if Siberian elm responds well to heat treating--I have not been particularly successful with heat treating in the past and I need this attempt to survive--the guy has been waiting a good long time, and I would like to get him his bow. (and move on to making one for myself).  so my question is will a light heat-treatment help here or raise the risk of failure?

[Pat B]

How does she look unbraced?

[jeffp51]

should have known that was coming.  I feel reasonably good about the tiller.

[NonBacked]

Jeff, it sounds like you’ve been down a pretty bumpy road with that “free” wood. I’m guessing No. 3 is about 65” ntn and about 2” at the fades. The FD pic shows the string angle right at 90 deg. – that’s why it feels like it’s peaked-out (it has). The tiller looks really good at 30”. I’d shoot it about 200 times, stain it, add the finish, and give it to your buddy. I’m sure he’ll be very happy with his new “homemade” bow.

Most elms respond well to heat treating. That being said, you probably would have had better results it you treated it when you reached 25” to 26”. If you heat treat it now, you might be working on No. 4 next week.

Proud of your persistence – good job. H

[mikekeswick]

Yes I too would leave it alone. The tiller is very good now. Sometimes chasing that bit 'extra' is a mistake!

[Del the cat]

Yes I too would leave it alone. The tiller is very good now. Sometimes chasing that bit 'extra' is a mistake!

+1
Step away from the bow, keep your hands where we can see 'em 
Del

[BowEd]

+1.I dare bet your friend will like the bow very well the way it is.Many species of elm out there.Red elm has been disappointing to me but winged elm has been very good.
Nice bow & good job on that one.

[George Tsoukalas]

Looks good and it looks done. What kind of a bow does your friend have a 30" draw on? Jawge

[bradsmith2010]

looks good move on,, sometimes as stated,, better can be the enemy,,

[Stick Bender]

Beautiful tiller I would be happy with that , that elm sounds touchy I know from making bows at that draw length there is a fine line from nice bow to broke !  I would call it done and nice job !

[jeffp51]

Thanks all, that is pretty much what I was thinking, but it is nice to get confirmation.  My question is more basic, though.  Does Heat treating make a belly more likely or less likely to form frets and chrysals? --Let's assume for the sake of argument that no change is made to the profile.

[jeffp51]

Looks good and it looks done. What kind of a bow does your friend have a 30" draw on? Jawge

George, he shoots both compound and traditional--and hunts a lot.  I went to his house and measured his draw with one of my bows and one of my arrows. Turns out he is short, but has freakishly long, ape-like arms, and a fairly rearward natural anchor.

[BowEd]

Jeff....I've read Marc say heat treating does'nt make wood more elastic that's for sure.It might depend on type of wood too as all wood is not the same.The balance of forces between the back and belly most times has to be leaning more to tension stronger type wood for heat treating to be a greater benefit.Making bows from different types of wood is always good I think for refining tillering skills because some woods are just plain more touchy then others.
Still the tiller on your bow is dead nuts...Congrats.

[Badger]

   If that is really Siberian elm you did an excellent job. Are you sure it is Siberian elm?? I agree with the others, it took very little set, I wouldn't expect any better than you have it now.

[ohma2]

I think you have done a great job with that,like others id let it be and hope that long draw doesnt do it in.beautifull tiller!!