That's a really good question, I have addressed it before but don't have a good answer, only a theory. I know for a fact that some induced reflex will just pull out naturally. Its not really set. The best way I have found to identify it is creep back in a rested bow. If it doesn't creep back it really hasn't taken set. What makes it hard and takes a lot away from this technique is that the early induced reflex does carry some weight that will drop. I like to allow 1/2" but have seen plenty of instances where I know I could have allowed more. This is partly what screwed me up yesterday, I treated the first part of the set as just not holding all the reflex when in fact it was actually taking some set. The best I can come up with right now is that the no set method is not 100%, just another tool to help us out if we are looking to hone in on a design. It does give us a better chance of getting that super bow here and there. I build all different styles and lengths and weights of bows so I rely heavily on the no set method but if you have already honed in on good dimensions for a given design it won't help much. I started off yesterday building a 70# bow, 1 3/4" wide, 70" long. I figured that was overkill to get started on. Early losses made me decide to drop down to 50#, it was holding very well so I started refining down the edges as I increased the draw, lowering the mass as I went. I ended up 1 1/2 wide pyramid design. I am overall very happy with the bow but I know I blew it for much better performance by not responding quick enough to what it was telling me. The bow comes back to 2" reflex after resting which tells me it is true set it took, not all that bad but I am still kicking myself in the but, the stave was perfect.