Tip overlay - overview please?

[shofu]

#1 - do you violate the back to make perfect flat spot for gluing on overlays?

#2 - how would you make overlay for pin knocks?

Thanks!
George

[Wooden Spring]

I hope this helps... I was experimenting the other day on using casting resin mixed with some artists charcoal to simulate horn as a tip overlay on my bows. This is the first time I've tried casting resin, but I've used all manner of other contrivances as tip overlays with varying degrees of success...

In my overlays, I measure a line 3 inches out along the back, and 1/8" up from the belly, and cut out the angle, then glue on whatever monstrosity I want to use for an overlay and then begin shaping it. From this point, you can use just about whatever nock style you want (I use pin nocks too, they're just easier).

Oh, I forgot to mention, I glue them on with JB Weld... Probably don't NEED anything that strong, but, to quote Benjamin Franklin: "Moderation in the face of evil is no virtue, and extremism in defense of liberty is no vice."

[DC]

I used to worry about flattening the back but I got over it. The last couple of inches of the limb don't bend so you can be a little aggressive(not the best word) here. Overlays are only necessary with soft woods. If you are using OS you don't need them at all. Yew, probably, depends on the draw weight and size of string. That said I still put overlays on whatever because they look nice. If you buy a couple of chew hooves you can use the corners for bigger overlays and the thinner parts can be heated and flattened to use as pin nock overlays. You can make them 1/16" or so. I've never tried it but you may be able to heat it and form it to the natural curve of the back.

[Pat B]

In a non bending area like at the tips it shouldn't be a problem. Try to keep it within one ring but a slight violation shouldn't be a problem.

[PatM]

It's non-bending so you can go at an angle across the whole depth of the wood. People on here do that a lot although about half the limb thickness is more common.

[Aaron H]

PatM is right, you can go all the way across the depth of the wood.  There's not much stress on the back that far out on the limbs.
This is a tri lam, but it's the same principle for a self bow. 

[Pat B]

...but, if you do go all the way through the limb for your overlays be sure that at least some of the bow tip is at least under the string nock. If not the leverage can pop the overlay off and possibly damage the bow.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Right on Pat. I usually try to have about a 1/4" of actual bow wood in front of my groove. A-a-ron's example is pretty much my standard, minus the side grooves. I just cut in a top groove and make my string loops just a fuzz bigger so they can "swing" freely as I draw.

[Aaron H]

Yea, I agree Pat.   This example is pretty extreme for me honestly.  I usually have a little more limb under my string nocks.  But, this bow has shot a couple thousand arrows without any problems yet. 

[shofu]

Thanks guys! This is super helpful! I was scared of cutting through back...
So for pin knocks, same thing but shape different?
Cheers,
George

[tattoo dave]

Pin nocks don't really need an overlay, but yup same process.

Tattoo Dave

[Pat B]

Pin knots should be cleaned up well without violating the back ring. Pin knots can cause trouble if not dealt with correctly. This is for the back of the bow. Knots on bellies aren't a problem usually.

[osage outlaw]

Pat,  they were talking about pin nocks. 

[Pat B]

Old man's eyes. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Huh? What? Huh? I cant hear ya' sonny!