Osage Bow (that hopefully doesn't take 10 months)

[Marin]

So I finished shaping today and I'll add the jocks and do final sanding tommorow. Before I add the nocks, I was just curious about pin nocks vs standard nocks. Does one have advantages over the other or is it just personal preference?

[Marin]

Just about nocks, if I go with standard nocks, what is te difference between cutting aglned nocks and "horizontal" nocks?

[TimBo]

I'm not quite sure about your last question (horizontal?).  I like pin nocks because they are simple and light.  Lots of guys like fancier ones though, and they are very beautiful.  It's a personal preference thing - find some you like and copy them.  That might help with the other question too. 

[Marin]

By Horizontal I mean nocks that are straight. For my board bow I made nocks that went at a 45 degree angle so I didn't know why people choose to do straight.

[Eric Krewson]

When you see straight nocks it usually means the bow maker was a beginner and didn't know how to make nocks correctly.

[TimBo]

If the nocks were at, say, 90 degrees to the back/belly, it would create a lot more wear on the string loop, and the loop would probably be more inclined to slip off while stringing. 

[Marin]

Okay I added the nocks today and started long string tillering. I pilled it to where it's 25 lb, which is at 12". As it still has a little bit of reflex in one limb, I'm just wondering would this limb appear stiffer Han it actually is when on he tiller stick? Should I take more wood off this area to compensate or ignore it?
Also, quick thing about he nocks, I'm really bad at making the,. It appears they are not lined up perfectly. I know that it will never be perfect but my alignment just seems "too off". I'm just wondering if you guys think they look fine.
I'll do more tillering hopefully tomorrow

[Marin]

Another quick question, does a tillering gizmo work for this kind if bow? I was just thinking about this as I used one for the board bow but his stave have some snake, so perhaps I need to eyeball the tiller this time

[Eric Krewson]

Use the gizmo just like you did on your board bow just keep it centered on the limb even in the snakey parts.

Your nocks are cut poorly, one high and one low. Always draw in where you want to cut them so they match on the back and belly, no freehanding.

[Marin]

I didn't freehand it. I measured 1/2" from the tip. I think what threw me off was the curvature of the tip.
Could I try to recut them? By that I mean cut the higher one a little lower, with it being much wider?

[Eric Krewson]

Yep, go up on the low one and down on the high one.

[Marin]

Okay, I fixed the nocks and did more long stirng tillering at 12" until most of the stiff spots picked up by the gizmo were gone. I then recoamoed one of the,limbs to the caul and heated it. I've just been noticing this limb still has deflex so I was hoping that after some tillering, it might be easier to bend. I'll unclamp tomorrow.

[Marin]

Okay I went to 14" today and tillered until the gizmo stopped picking up stiff marks. I then low braced the bow and pulled the bow to where it was 25 lbs which was at 16". I tillered at 16", then 17", and then 18". What's worrisome is that it's currently 23# at 18", and the wood appears to have 2lbs per inch of draw, meaning that at 28", I will be under my target of 55#. I don't know why this happened. On my last bow, it was because  assumed that I was  going to be overweight and took off a lot of material but on this one I did not do that. I'm quite confused on this fact. 
Attached are pics of today's work . I think the tiller looks good but is it it right for a semi rigid bendy handle bow? I believe it has to be elliptical for that but am I wrong?

[Marin]

One pic of tiller at 18", where I stopped today

[Eric Krewson]

You have proved me wrong Marin, I didn't think you would ever finish this bow. Your tillering job so far is pretty good, a lot better than most newbies.