Glue vs Screw for target points?

[Ippus]

So, I know buying target points isn't precisely traditional.

If I'm going to the trouble to make and fletch my own shafts, what should I use for practice points?
-I have wild rose shafts that I harvested and straightened (in the 5/16-3/8 range)
-I haven't lined up feathers for them yet
-I draw at most 30" so I was going to make the arrows 31"
-My first (so far, only) bow is 28# @30" and I haven't shot it, so I haven't dialed in the spine I need yet.

Is there a particular advantage to glue-on vs threaded points?

Is there a more primitive alternative short of knapping broadheads (I do have some limited knapping materials, but even more limited skill/experience in that department)?

I guess I could just fire-harden the wooden points, but since that adds no weight to the tip, it seems like that might throw off my spine calculation when I get around to adding broadheads... Is there an easy way to adjust for that?

[aaron]

standard glue on is easiest- use hotmelt. Don't forget to really clean out the point.

screw on are like a glued on point, but have threads. I've never used them.

screw IN are used only with carbon fiber arrows, generally.

get a sample pack of several different weights- this will let you tune your arrows.

heavier is good- don't be afraid to try heavy points like 200gn

there are no great primitive substitutes, except maybe a home made blunt

[Ippus]

Thanks, aaron!

Hey, when you knap points, how heavy to they typically come out?

[aaron]

About 75-100 grains for me.

[osage outlaw]

Glue on points are usually used with wooden shafts mounted with hot melt glue for easy removal.  You could also drill them out or use bamboo shafts and make duplex nail points.  They are a lot cheaper than buying field points.  If you go with the glue on points make sure you clean the inside of them out before gluing them on.  They can have an oily film inside and they will come loose easily.  I use acetone and a Q tip.

[Little John]

I wanted home made target points and come up with tie on trade points made from saw blades cut the same width as the shaft diameter. slot the shaft, point the point, put a grove and notch for sinue wrap, glue in and then sinue wrap. Home made, unique, and works good.

[loon]

You can also use duplex points with wood or shoot shafts. They might be more durable than the socketed glue-on if you sinew wrap or similar.
I guess the primitive alternative would be a foreshafty thing for a target point, out of a dense wood, bone or antler.

Why tanged (duplex nail) points may be more durable than standard glue-on, quoted from Peter Dekker

I've often heard that people think the socketed arrow is the better option against armor. Has this ever been tested? I shoot both types of arrows and if I shoot a socketed arrow into a wall it is prone to breakage right behind the socket. My tanged arrows remain intact if shot into the same brick wall. I've split small stones with them. The tang, hide glue and tight sinew wrapping are more work but much stronger than a [socketed] construction. The steel tang also stiffens and reinforces the frontal portion of the arrow. I see no reason why a socketed head would be better for armor penetration.

...

The base of the head that rests against the shaft needs to be flat [have a shoulder, which the duplex nail points do] so it supports the shaft on impact instead of splitting it.

cons are, more work to put on and remove than glue on.

I used top hat screw on points once, on bamboo arrows. They recommend their own specialized tool... I just used pliers. Sometimes they broke off or got lost. maybe because I didn't do it 'right' - besides, the thickness of the bamboo was a bit inconsistent. May be easier to do glue ons - taper, clean up and glue with good hot melt... Besides, they tend to be cheaper from what I've seen.

[bjrogg]

Hand forged points would probably be one alternative, probably not easy to get or make. I have seen people on this site who make there own and they look fantastic. I know there was a fellow making them at Marshall last year. I watched him for a bit, very interesting. Should have asked what he wanted for them. I have used two different sized drills and used screw in type. I keep hole for screw part a little bit on the snug side so point will make threads in wood. You have to wrap shaft with sinew first to keep it from splitting but you have to do that anyway. Glue on is probably the simplest, but Dbar has a build along ( I think it a sticky on the top of this section) and he uses duplexe ( double headed)
Nails. They look like they would work great to me.
Bjrogg

[bjrogg]

I thought Dbar had build here but don't see it. If you go to build along section tenbrook has a sticky at top of forum section. It's very worth while checking out and uses duplex nails for points.
Bjrogg