"Flipping the tips will add more stress so unless you get the rest of the limb contributing you may only add more set."
Maybe. Usually. But, maybe not.
I do what you did here almost as a matter of routine. I let whitewood flatbows take whatever set they are going to, while keeping it as low as possible, of course. That's usually ABOUT 1" to 1-1/2" for a 68" bow. I've never been able to get much less from common woods, but, I can't stand it!!!! So, along with a final heat tempering, I almost always end up flipping the tips just about that much back, so the tips end even or, like 1/2" back. For me, this works really well and I have almost not issues.
First, since the tips were stiff in the last 8" anyway, the net effect on strain seems to be pretty minimal, and I get very little new set, if any. It does raise draw weight often 5-10lbs, but again, that seems to not contribute any more set. And, I know this is counter-intuitive, but it just doesn't seem to bug it much. The one thing it really does is tighten up the string at brace, so even if I re-tiller to the same weight, the bow is a little snappier.
Now, on your bow here, it does look like much of your set was taken in the inner limbs. Recurving it like you did (more than I usually "flip" the tips) actually shifts the limb tip leverage AWAY from the inner limbs out toward the middles and to just below the recurve. If you string it as is, you will see those areas belly out more than they do in the "before " pic. So, you may take more set there, but maybe not where the wood already had. That's what I'd expect.
Either way, despite the experience others are reporting, I usually have to barely tweak tiller, if at all, as long as I don't go nuts on the size and angle of the recurves. The main problem I do have is that the limb tips are usually skinny enough that I can't get away with much curve or they try to lean to the side.
Give it a few days, string it and have a look.
