Sinew Processes ?

[DC]

I'm still a little confused. Do you stir up the fibers to mesh them or? Do you do this on the bow or on a separate board and then move the whole slab to the bow.

[Stick Bender]

No each bundle is saturated in the glue then squeegeed with your fingers to take out the excess glue , laid on one at a time then flattened out the next layer is done the same way parallel to it and flattened out joining the 2 bundles as one before the glue gels I think there is some pics in TBB it's just these 2 processes are a variation on that !

[BowEd]

It also mentions in the book of using a thicker mixture of glue to water the first course if more then one course is to be put on.Sizing first done with a few thin mixture layers to get into all the little places good.Sanding inbetween.A bit more paticular with those horn bows then a regular self bow sinew job.Doing 1 limb at a time to ensure meshing like said.All because of the gelling time limits.Temperatures in the area can help control this too.The hotter the slower the gelling /the cooler the quicker etc.Don't have an overhead fan on....lol.
I've never used fish bladder glue but it's said to be slower gelling.I'm sure it is.Hide and sinew glue a touch faster but still enough time that your not that hurried applying bundles.Sometimes a mixture f both can work the best.That's why using fish bladder glue when glueing horn to core[timing more critical] gives a person more time to get everything clamped proper before it gells too much for bonding reasons.Thicker glue used then too is reccommended.Non of these paticulars are needed really doing a regular self bow sinewing though IMO.

[Stick Bender]

I think on the next one I'm going to try the multiple sizing coats and sand in between like he recommends I didn't do that on this bow just put 3 thin sizing coats with not sanding in between , even though it isn't required for a non horn bow I like the idea of getting it as close to perfect as possible , but one of the reasons I'm trying to perfect it is eventually work towards making composite bows .

[willie]

Stickbender
could you describe the compressing by pulling to reflex part in more detail?   ( @ reply #8 )

Beadman
are different weights of hide glue utilized? I have three different weights

[PatM]

Why would heating after gelling weaken anything? You're just re-setting the process. Also I'm curious how  Adam's method yields a precise ratio?  Are you using equal weight of sinew to glue and using absolutely all of the glue?

[Stick Bender]

You know Pat your right if your going to do it all at once like your method I was thinking in terms of multiple  layers after a period of time but even then your probably right  but as far as the glue to sinew ratio yes it is weighed if you following his method 100% at a ratio that in the end will yelled 25% to glue ratio I think it's close to 1 to 1 or as close as it can be , your method is great and easy to apply not putting it down just trying to perfect Adams method is all , like Ed said it's probably moot for these style bows just like the idea of the strongest sinew I can get but your method is far less time consuming 

[BowEd]

Pat M...yes equal weight of sinew to dried glue before water.With water to sinew mixture for a 20% to 25% mixture.Being as close to precise as a person can is the goal here.Doing enough sinew jobs will help getting that as close as possible.I like it a tad thicker then log cabin syrup but not too much.I usually don't run out and yes I try to use it all.
wilie....I stated uses of different weights for different uses.Thinner for sizing and thicker for at least the first course of sinew.

[PatM]

 With multiple layers the previous layer is dry rather than just gelled so you wouldn't really be re-activating beyond a very superficial boundary. That would be happening either way as you bring fresh warm glue in contact with the previous layer.

[BowEd]

Yes Pat your superficial boundary would be enough to bond the layers.Using a good grade of glue is all that's required.

[Stick Bender]

Pat After rethinking my comment after yours I agree I was wrong that's why threads like this are good for learning ,Willie in Adams book after the final layers are put on he states after the sinew/glue is hard but not dry that he pulls the bow into 4-6 in of more reflex less if more layers are to be put on but he is referring to composite bows , putting the sinew into compretion pushing it into the core , the part I don't understand is after the final layer is dry he speaks to sanding dusting & putting a 10% soulution of glue on just don't understand the dusting part ?

[PatM]

Undoubtedly brushing or blowing off the sanded residue. The same way you would while prepping any sanded surface.

The final coat is just like what Hamm recommends after sanding the back smooth.


Sinew is too precious for me to reduce to dust as I have mentioned before.

[Stick Bender]

Ok that makes sense I dont know why he just didnt say dusting off !  This bow is allready starting to pull reflex on its own again at 5 days Im going to let this one set 2 more months before tiller.

[willie]

pushing it into the core

seems odd, I could understand if it helps the sinew shrink more/better.

does he do it right after it gells?, or later in the drying/curing process?

[Stick Bender]

I think it does both buy bending the radius tighter pushing into the core & pulling more reflex offers less residents at least that's how I understand it.