Plains gull wing tiller?

[High-Desert]

This is my first attempt at a plains style yew bow with setback in the handle, and I'm questioning the tiller.
It's 40" long, 1.5" wide at the handle tapering to 1/2" at the tips, 4.5 layers of sinew. The picture shows it drawn to 16" at 43 lbs. I'm guessing that I need the fades to work more and a tad more bend on the outer right limb. I don't have a braced profile pick, but can post one if needed. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Eric

[loon]

Is it symmetric? It looks like the left limb is stiffer..

[willie]

how thick is it at the handle center? with such a short length, a good bit of the bow has to work, I would think, although I am not sure how much in the handle.  Do you have a model or example to work from? what finished draw length are you going for?

[High-Desert]

Every time I look at the photo, which limb appears stiffer changes. I'm not sure if it's because of the slight angle of the photo. It is symmetric.
I have been looking for examples in books and online, and there seems to be a lot of variance in the types of tiller I'm seeming. I'm going for 20-21" draw

[willie]

In the photo, the limb curve looks fairly symmetrical against the grid, but the handle does not look square with the top of the grid. What happens if you flip the bow around?

[wizardgoat]

I like set back handles to flatten out at full draw, depending on degree.
One thing I learned building these, you don't get as much draw length as you might hope.
Draw the bow in hand for final tillering, things will change a bit from the tree

[mikekeswick]

Yes you need to get the handle working.
Any bow with a setback handle forces the bow to bend more in the mid/outer limbs thus storing less energy.

[Selfbowman]

Ends are too stiff. Arvin

[High-Desert]

Thanks guys, I will get the handle working more.
Arvin, from what I've seen on these bows, the tips are very stiff for a good portion of the limb, anyone correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe mine are still too stuff

[gfugal]

I don't think the back is level so its created the illusion of even limb bending. This happened to me on the bow i'm currently working on. I would say the left limb is definately stiffer. You can see that the distance from the arc to mid limb on the right side is greater than the distance on the left. If you have a brace picture i think it would help.

[bradsmith2010]

I agree inner and outers can work more

[High-Desert]

Great! Thanks everyone. I flipped the bow on the tree, and it looked the same....
I am currently working on getting the tips and handle to work a bit more. Will post some progress pictures when that happens.

Eric

[willie]

I flipped the bow on the tree, and it looked the same

if the handle is true but the bow seat is canted, it might tilt the same.
if the tree seat is long, put something soft right at the where the pressure point on your hand wants to be, and fiddle with your nock point on the string till the handle looks level, and then flip and level the handle level again to see unequal bends.

something wonky going on, could be just the pics... just hate to see adjustments made with out seeing it a couple of ways


good quote from wiz 

Draw the bow in hand for final tillering, things will change a bit from the tree

the final tiller needs to look the way you want it to, when shot from the hand

[Springbuck]

Listen to Willie!     ^^^

[wizardgoat]

Willie not sure what you mean, I aim to have an equal bend on the tree, but move to only drawing it by hand for the final inches of tillering. I like to feel the balance, not just see it.