I've done the same as Eric, but in my case I was totally sorry later.......
Now, this worked for me a couple of times, but I'm NOT saying I recommend it, exactly.
If you just put more glue in and clamp down harder, the dried glue inside maintains the gaps and stops you. But, the glue is strong, it just doesn't fill the gaps well.
So, once I really wanted to save a hickory backed black locust recurve I made. The hickory had cupped when wet, and my clamps didn't span the whole backing width, creating gaps a lot like this. The limbs were fine once I trapped them, but the fades were iffy, and some backing on the handle was lifted in bad spots.
So took a propane torch and an old butter knife and an old utility knife blade held in some vise grips, heated them red hot and burned and melted away any glue in the gaps, but not doing anything. Then I tried to guess the general shape of the little flat cavities I had made. I clamped the area so it couldn't spread.
Then, I took some hickory veneer I had, snipped it into bits and slivers, dipped them each in TB III as I went, and tapped them in, like little shims using a tiny stick for a mallet. I filled the hole with glue ahead of time, too. The shims drove almost all of the glue, and I basically smashed as much wood as I could pack in there, gently.
It worked, the bow is still shooting (gave it to a work buddy). You could barely tell once sanded.
I don't think it would work in every case.
