Tillering for low set

[DC]

On the bow I'm working on now I'm trying for minimal set. I traced the back on a sheet of paper and started in. Started with 1 1/4" natural reflex. I've got the tips moving about six inches. I decided to check against the tracing. One limb is fine and the other has about 1/2"(at the tip) of set, looks like it's all just out of the fade. What do I do now? Iv'e still got 21" to go.

[bubby]

Sounds like that limb is working to much at the fade to me

[bubby]

https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,17294.msg239122.html#msg239122

This is badgers mass theory for no set tillering

[DC]

So I should leave that area? Since I have so far to go, eventually that area will be strong enough. Then do I start scraping there again. Am I supposed to be treating this area like a hinge, sorta?

[DC]

OK, i'll read that, again

[DC]

OK a quick look a that. I've read it about half dozen times It all makes sense but any explanation I've read tells you how to find set but I haven't seen anything that says what to do once you notice it. Bubby said,"Sounds like that limb is working to much at the fade to me."  So now what do I do? Maybe it sounds like I'm whining but I'm stumped here. I've read the TBB series a bunch of times and didn't see an answer. Help

[upstatenybowyer]

All I've got is my own experience to go on, but according to that...

whenever an area is bending more than I want I leave it alone and work somewhere else

for me set always happens when an area bends too much for too long and with too much force, thus proceeding slowly is so important

wider limbs and/or sinew on shorter/higher stressed designs helps a lot

I could be wrong, but once it happens there's no fixing it. I love this thing Badger said, "If we have to exercise the bow to register changes, we are actually damaging the wood. We don't want the wood to have any memory of ever being bent if possible." I'm going to read that mass theory of his right now!

Okay, I read it.  That's one of the coolest things I've learned about on PA yet.

[bubby]

Without pics dc i would say treat it like a hinge and stay away from it for a bit you have plenty of room to catch it up

[DC]

Thanks Upstate and Bubby

[bradsmith2010]

make the rest of the limb work more,, thats the point,, if you notice a certain area of the bow working to much or taking set ,,,, even it out,, its telling you the rest of the limb needs be working evenly,, or sharing the strain evenly,,
your right it is tricky, but you will get it,,,,

[willie]

On the bow I'm working on now I'm trying for minimal set.

just curious DC, but how did you set your weight goal?, and are you tillering with the "never pull it harder than your intended draw weight" rule? Have you braced he bow yet?

[DC]

On the bow I'm working on now I'm trying for minimal set.

just curious DC, but how did you set your weight goal?, and are you tillering with the "never pull it harder than your intended draw weight" rule? Have you braced he bow yet?

I make my bows around 42-43 pounds. I never pull it harder than the draw weight. I haven't braced it yet.

[DC]

make the rest of the limb work more,, thats the point,, if you notice a certain area of the bow working to much or taking set ,,,, even it out,, its telling you the rest of the limb needs be working evenly,, or sharing the strain evenly,,
your right it is tricky, but you will get it,,,,

I guess this is why I miss things when I'm reading. "make the rest of the limb work more" doesn't explain to me what I have to do. Does it mean leave it stiff or does it mean make it bend more. In this post would it still be true to substitute "bend" or "bending" where ever it says "work" or "working". I think I'm catching on, slowly

[willie]

DC

if you pull it to its full weight on the long string you might aggravate the weak area near the fade, as the long string puts more stress on the center of the bow. perhaps pulling somewhat less than full and getting the bow bending more than usual before bracing might help.

I am not sure how  tillering to the usual weight goal is going to go hand in hand with shooting for less set than normal? or have I misconstrued what you mean by minimal?

[BowEd]

Since you have no pics shown I will go through the whole process a person could see what's going on.Without trying to sound like a know it all here in the beginning at rest for easiest tillering you want the bow limbs to look alike at a side view profile.This I'm sure you know.Now floor tiller it to bending evenly with the same pressure on each limb.At this stage you should of seen the uneven bend already.This I'm sure you know too.Adjust that so they bend alike with the same amount of pressure.4" of tip movement floor tillering will still get you a 50# bow.Now on your tillering tree with the long string if you've floor tillered good enough your limbs should be bending close to evenly at 6" of tip movement below your handle.I use a poundage graduation tester that shows me the poundage it is at that 6" of tip movement.If it is around 50#'s for your case for a 42 to 43 pound bow it could be braced.It will more than likely be around a 60# bow yet for sure.Go from there tillering without over stressing past your draw weight adusting limbs to each bend evenly to your draw weight.Your on your way.
The trick is to get a good floor tiller and things will go smoothly.Good floor tillering is an art in my book and takes time to learn properly.It reduces stress on the limbs before first bracing happens and if it's off a little like a 1/4" positive tiller or so it won't stress the limbs at all.Getting good enough at floor tillering you can jump right to the short string and brace it even tillered around 5 to 10 pounds above your intended draw weight.Learning these things properly first will make it much easier to tiller a bow for minimal integrety check type set.