Handles on a stave bow

[Dkincaid]

That cork looks good I'm just used to cutting a shelf into the bow though I should probably branch out.

[Jim Davis]

No shelf needed anyway. I've glued on several handles and the only one that came off was glued with epoxy. I'll never use it for joining wood again. Titebond II has never failed me in any application, from handles to laminations to footings.

Jim Davis

[Pat B]

One inch thick at the handle is thick enough. Add a riser block with tapered ends and blend the fades(taper) into the limb. As long as the riser block sits above the plane of the limb it shouldn't pop off.

[DC]

No shelf needed anyway. I've glued on several handles and the only one that came off was glued with epoxy. I'll never use it for joining wood again. Titebond II has never failed me in any application, from handles to laminations to footings.

Jim Davis

That's weird isn't it. Probably what we're used to. Your joints are probably better than mine and more suited to Titebond and mine are , well, vice versa. I've never used Titebond but I just always assumed that epoxy was better. Don't know why.

[Selfbowman]

Should work if your stave is 1" thick at handle. Leave fades wide as possible for 2". Arvin

[Stick Bender]

I'm just finishing up a 66 in osage bow & the handle is 1 in thick by 15/16 wide & it doesent bend I don't think you will have a problem you could always add cork leather wood after words if you didn't like it, like was said.

[bradsmith2010]

yes it probably wont bend,, when you get used to a small handle like that they shoot great,,
you could build it up, no need to make a wood hanlde,, unless you want,,,