What to do to get to 100#?

[cool_98_555]

Hello everyone,

I just finished tillering a heavy osage stiff handle selfbow the other day.  It came out at 93# @ 29".  However, I would love to get that extra 7# and go to 100#.  It is currently 68" long, 1 3/16" wide at the fades, and has no shelf.  I was thinking I could pike it to 66" which would push it over 100# according to the formula.  However, this method is shady to me because I don't know how 66" will feel at my draw length and at the weight I am going to be at.  Can the bow handle a 66" length at that weight? I'm not sure.  I could also put some reflex in it and retiller it after that, but I am hesitant to apply any more heat to it...I've already had to make a few corrections to align the string at an earlier stage.  I could also try tempering the belly, but with all the work I put in to this bow already, I don't want to run the risk of screwing anything up with tempering...

Thoughts?

[Frodolf]

I guess with those options ruled out, the only thing left is a backing. One layer of sinew ought to do it. BTW, sounds like a killer bow!

[Del the cat]

100 is just a number...
write 100# on it and be done
For pities sake don't pike it... heat treat it a tad if you really must.
Del

[mikekeswick]

Add back a 1/16th of wood along the whole belly!
Joking aside don't shorten it and if you heat treat it the corrections you made earlier will move back once the wood gets hot enough to plasticise. You can clamp it to stop this but it can be tricky.
A sinew backing would help to increase the weight but to get the most out of sinew the bow should be well reflexed. Doing that to a tillered bow isn't a great idea because you put the compressed belly into tension. I find the wood doesn't like this.
I'm with Del.....just write 100# on it!
The trick to never missing weight is to always pull to desired finished weight all through tillering unless you spot a problem area. Stop a few inches short of full draw then shoot it in and sand it the last inch to full draw at desired weight. Plenty of exercising the limbs everytime you work on it is really important too.

[bradsmith2010]

draw it one more inche it will be 97,,,that close enough,, I am with the other guys, just write 100 and be done,, no one will ever know,,

[DC]

If you write 93@29" it sounds like you actually measured it. If you write 100@29" it sounds a little phoney . I doubt the arrow will notice at all. It is just a number. Do you like how it shoots??

[cool_98_555]

I'm still in the process of shooting the bow in.  Seems to be shooting well so far.  Gotta mess with the handle a bit more to get it more comfortable and maybe cut the string grooves a little deeper, but seems like everything's ok so far.  Those arrows will hit really hard at full draw!  I'll post pics when I'm completely done with it

[Lucasade]

Maybe your scales weren't zeroed properly - try resetting them then measure again 

[PatM]

Recurve it. 

[Badger]

  What was the starting profile as opposed to the finished profile? How much set in other words.

[Pat B]

Pull it to 32"!   

[upstatenybowyer]

Just curious why so much draw weight? Going for a moose or grizzly or something?

[Puckaway]

Just shoot it!! Build the next one bigger if you must!

[cool_98_555]

Badger, the set is very minimal on the bow.  I'd say no more than an inch, maybe less.

[make-n-break]

Upstate...some folks just like 'em heavy. You can kill anything in North America with a 60# bow.. but I think everyone should shoot as heavy a bow as they can handle. My current daily shooter is a 75# hickory and can be shot all day without the slightest fatigue. Working on a hackberry right now that's set to end up around 90-95. Instead of "why"... I say "why not?!" haha!