Black Powder Project

[Parnell]

I'm wondering how the black powder topic will evolve within PA.  Perhaps you read in the last issue of PA the intended inclusion of all things black powder?

Curious moderators, is there talk of a separate category being included on the forum?  Also, with the idea of people having to purchase components for rifles and such, I assume folks just need to stick with rules as best as possible with advertising issues and no name dropping with outside references, and of course links?

I've been working on my first project.  It's a .54 Hawkins style plains rifle kit I picked up.  Slow and steady, been doing quite a bit of reading as I have zero experience and don't want to mess things up.  I've been working on a powder horn as well.  Mullet helped me out in finding black powder because it is VERY difficult to find a supplier in Florida.  Oh well, maybe things will change with the new administration, but I'm skeptical regarding the powder...

Things are fitting together well with the kit and I've realized I need to file the barrel to get the microswirls out of the steel from the manufacturing process and it's coming out nicely.  Anybody want to weigh in on my filing over the writing on the barrel regarding manufacturing?  Is it to be left alone or can I file over that to clean it up, too?

I'm going to stain the stock with aqua fortis and then treat the steel with cold brown finishing.  Another question, should I be using the cold brown on the iron parts of the rifle, like the trigger guard, butt plate, etc.

It'd be fun to see other projects in the works.  Eric K's build a long really sparked my interest to find a starting point.

[Parnell]

Here are some pictures of where I'm at with it.  Advice well appreciated as I'm progressing carefully.

[Eric Krewson]

Aquafortis on walnut will turn it black, if that is walnut. If it is any other kind of wood do a test patch in the barrel channel to see what it looks like before you jump in with both feet.

If that is a Lyman plains rifle one thing I see people do that really kills the look is to leave the flat place on the back side of the lock panel flat. Round that sucker off.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Too cool Steve-O! Welcome to the front stuffers club my friend.

[bowtarist]

Lookin good Parnell!!

[loon]

Nice

[JW_Halverson]

The stamping from the barrel manufacturer is deep enough that to file it out will leave you with a massive gap in the stock. It might also thin the wall a little too much for safety overkill! Kit mfrs want their barrel info in sight, whereas component sets allow you to choose the barrel flat that allows you to put that stamping under the wood. 

[Parnell]

Aquafortis on walnut will turn it black, if that is walnut. If it is any other kind of wood do a test patch in the barrel channel to see what it looks like before you jump in with both feet.

If that is a Lyman plains rifle one thing I see people do that really kills the look is to leave the flat place on the back side of the lock panel flat. Round that sucker off.

Good advice, Eric.  I've been wondering about over darkening the walnut.  I'll test it seperately, but I've been wondering the same thing.  I've gotten many pieces of advice from different people, so it's difficult to know whats what.  It is a Lyman plains rifle.  I'll check out what you mean with the lock panel.

I've been looking at component projects for the future, JW.  I'm understanding it more and more.  Like archery, there is definitely lots to learn in the beginning, of course.  I don't intend to completely file off the stamping but am wondering if there is anything to be gained in "cleaning it up" with the file like the rest of the barrel.

Thanks for the comments, guys.  I'll keep this thread going as I progress.

[Eric Krewson]

As for the logo, you can take a drift and tap, tap, tap the letters closed then draw file them away, light taps. It worked on a green mountain barrel I use in my last build, Lyman lettering may be deeper.

[nclonghunter]

Eric, good idea on tapping over the lettering while it is still in the white.

I have wondered about using some type of liquid metal filler but I do know if any will take a bluing or browning of the barrel.

[chamookman]

I stained the Walnut stock on My Trade Gun - didn't like it, too dark. Sanded it all off and just used Tru Oil - came out real nice. Bob

[Parnell]

I'm glad I posted this up.  This is good advice, thanks, keep it coming!

[Eric Krewson]

NC, the liquid filler won't blue or brown.

[JW_Halverson]

NC, the liquid filler won't blue or brown.

And then it will act like a highlighter!!!  Bwaaahahaha!

I highly recommend the folks at Tennessee Valley Manufacturing for parts kits.  They will also do a lot of the hard work for you like basic shaping the stock, mortises, and barrel channel and all the way to finishing the gun for you, depending on the level of the work you want done. For your first go round, I would recommend a shaped stock, buttplate fitting, and barrel channel/ramrod channel. 

[mullet]

I'm glad to see you get this going, Steve. Finish it and we'll hit the Swamp. Gun season will open soon. Then I'll loan you one of my shotguns or smaller calibers for squirrel season.