Using a Chrono

[DC]

I was looking at Beadmans videos and noticed that he stood a lot closer to the Chrono than me. I seem to get better than 50% ERR1,ERR2,no response and 52.75fps. Sometimes I have to shoot a half dozen times to get a reading. I stopped using the shrouds because I hit one of the wires once and it scared the crap out of me. It doesn't seem to make any difference, it's usually overcast here anyway For those that use one on a regular basis, how far would you say the handle of the bow is from Chrono in order to get the best results? By best I don't mean best speed I mean fewest errors. Any other hints?

[Marc St Louis]

I usually set up the chrono within 3' of the tip of the arrow, before draw the bow

[Stick Bender]

I had the same isues as you when I first started using my Chrony & I was to close to the chrony  I started moving back about a arrow length or better  ,also noticed  I got a better reading when I was using the proper spined arrow ,at first I would just weigh any arrow but it got a lot more consistent when I used the proper spine , also if your chrony doesent have a LED hood you can try to move it to get a better light angle , but some times it's just plain sloppy release in my case. Hope that helped but the bottom line they can just be plain touchy !

[Arrowbuster]

I know on mine anyway I have to be outside. It doesn't read well with the lights in my shop. I usually stand 10 ft back or so.

[Badger]

  I stand about 3 feet away and shoot about 8" to 12" over the top of the chrono. I have some telephone wires near my spot where I have to shoot and I have a lot of trouble getting readings anymore. They register 20 fps fast or 20 fps slow. I have no idea why. If I move the chrono about 20 feet away to the yard where I am not supposed to shoot it reads fine. The wires are not all that close to me but still upset my readings.

[Del the cat]

The two main problems are lighting and standing too close.
Florescent tubes (and all electric lights to a lesser extent) will flicker which will mess up the chrono.
You must be a t least an arrow length away when you shoot else the back of the arrow will still be on the string and accellerating as the point goes through the first gate.
I made a set up with two 100w incandescent bulbs in translucent lamp shades which I put right above the chrono, on being above each gate, there is even a cardboard shield that puts the light exactly where it needs to be. I get much more consistent results now.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/stupidity-in-higher-primates.html
Out doors, natural light on an overcast day is best.
Del

[DC]

I was testing the new bow 43#@28" and it was shooting consistently it the mid 170's. Then I hit 182. I was all pumped. Then back into the 170's, then another 182. I hit 182 about 5 times but always 182, never 181. Does that sound like an anomaly or can I pat myself on the back.
I've never been in the 180's before.

[bow101]

I was testing the new bow 43#@28" and it was shooting consistently it the mid 170's. Then I hit 182. I was all pumped. Then back into the 170's, then another 182. I hit 182 about 5 times but always 182, never 181. Does that sound like an anomaly or can I pat myself on the back.
I've never been in the 180's before.

Do you find the Chrono kind of gives different measurements on hot days versus colder days and also the time the bow has been braced..?  I bet on a hot day after been braced for 3 hours the bow will slow down considerably.
After all wood bows give and take during temperature fluctuations.   Correct...?

[BowEd]

DC....That is a good speed.You did'nt mention the weight of your arrow though.How fresh is your bow?Consistent anchoring length on form and release and draw time helps with consistent readings.Good to hear your chrono's working good now.
bow101....I've found temperatures don't make much of a difference.Brace time maybe a little factor but not much.Actually if the brace lowers after 3 hours it'll have a smidgen more of a power stroke and shoot faster.Providing the poundage is the same at full anchor.Just with my limited experience.But I see your point too.We're getting technical here but generally the bow should shoot the same coming to the same anchor point with the same poundage at anchor each time.If it does'nt the bow is'nt broke in yet and is still taking set.
I'm sure there are others who can comment on here more about your questions too.This is just what goes on here at my range with my bows.

[DC]

Probably but I'm not consistent enough to notice it. If I shoot 50 arrows 90% of those that give a reading will be in a 10fps range,like 165-175 or something. I think any difference caused by temperature would disappear into that range. If I had a shooting machine it might show up. I'm thinking seriously about building a machine. When you're shooting through the chrono the temptation to pull "just a little farther" is very tempting. I'm not so concerned about breaking the bow, I've got lots of them. It's more like I told you the bow is 40#@28 and now I'm pulling it to 29", hardly honest reporting. I really want to get consistently into the 180's though.

Ed- I first shot the bow a couple of days ago and I got a few in the 180's, then it dropped to the high 170's. Then I heat treated it and re-tillered to 43#. Now they are all(except for the 182"s)in the mid to high 170's. Arrows are as close as I have to 10gpp. I usually pick an arrow that's 11 or so just because.

[BowEd]

That's pretty darn good DC.You got yourself a dandy bow there I would say.You've been tweaking on it though too so you'll have to see what it settles into now.Usually a bow will settle in for me after a few 4 hour brace times and a couple hundred arrows,but an accidental over draw can really settle her in quicker and properly too.....lol.Shooting arrows that can only be shot to 28" is the safest for me.It's good to tiller them an inch past though.Just for safety reasons like that.

[bradsmith2010]

DC,, sometimes when I am tired my release is not so good,, and I loose a few fps,,
if I shoot first thing in the morning,, when I am fresh,, I get more consistant results,, dublicates,, and the fps are closer,, sometimes when I hold the bow real loose,, I will get that extra few fps that makes me smile,,
the bow is shooting good,, now you have to do your part,, also take into consideration how much your string weighs  ,,, ,I think Badger said one less strand will add 1 1/2 fps,, and that he shoots 6 strand sometimes,, I am afraid to go that low,, I have been shooting a 10 strand ,, and thats as low as I can go,,,,, I think you will see the more you shoot through the chrono,, the better and more consistant your release will become,, its kinda like close range flight shooting,,   I have not tried this,, but maybe try some shafts with no feathers,,???

[DC]

I use 10 strands of FF. I think I'll stick with that. I have some arrows that I use for blind baling. They have no fletching and erasers for tips. I was thinking of trying one of those. I thought the fat tip might give more consistent results.

[Del the cat]

You should ignore anomalous reading unles you can reproduce it.
They are easily explained:-
If the arrow is flexing slightly, (or travelling at an angle) the point of the arrow may miss the front gate and the shaft a little way behind the point may trip the gate. If the point then trips the back gate you will get a high reading.
E.g If the distance between the gates is 12" and the point gets 6" past the gate before the shaft trips it, but it cleanly trips the back gate the the reading would be twice as high!
Even the length of the shoulder on the arrow head could make a difference. The sensor is trying to pick up the shadow and even with a good clean light source a shaddow has a blurred edge so there is always some error.
There is prob some standard procedure like take 5 or so readings, discount the highest and lowest the average the remaining ones.
I'm sure we've all seem the odd impossible reading.
Del

[Selfbowman]

I use one on occasion but prefer to see how far the bow will cast a 500 gr. Arrow on a calm day. Distance don't lie. Right Bdager.   Arvin