Author Topic: Molle tips  (Read 3069 times)

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Offline DC

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Molle tips
« on: November 11, 2016, 05:33:32 pm »
When I'm tillering a molle can I wait until the bow is pretty much tillered and then reduce the tips until they almost bend or is there some reason to work the tips down as I'm tillering the inner limbs?

Offline bubby

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2016, 05:51:27 pm »
Yeah no problems but i like to start reducing as i get it bending as i can see the finished bends better
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline bushboy

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2016, 06:10:45 pm »
Yeah.x2
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline DC

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #3 on: November 11, 2016, 06:22:23 pm »
Yeah no problems but i like to start reducing as i get it bending as i can see the finished bends better

Sorry, I'm not following you. When you say "finished bends" what are you referring to? When I said tips I meant the outer limbs, you know, the stiff outer limbs that don't bend.

Offline bubby

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #4 on: November 11, 2016, 07:41:20 pm »
How about the flow of the bow, the limbs and levers have to have a harmonious flow to look good, plus most of my levers are recurved

Like this bow at this point the levers still need reduced but aren't full thickness
« Last Edit: November 11, 2016, 07:47:12 pm by bubby »
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Pat B

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #5 on: November 11, 2016, 08:08:32 pm »
Bubby, I like the way you have transitioned from limb to lever. It is a smooth transition and not the "axy" looking levers I've seen. I think you can bring the working limb closer to the recurve. The apex of the curve is where most of the tension is so the tips can be reduced more as you get away from the curve. But, I do love the flow of that bow!  ;)
 DC, you can leave the tips and handle area wide while tillering. Tillering is getting the working limbs bending evenly and together. The handle and tips can be shaped later. I usually wait on the tips until first brace and adjust the string tracking by shaping the tips to go along with the string track.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bubby

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #6 on: November 11, 2016, 08:14:17 pm »
Thanks Pat , i posted that to show exactly what i meant when i told dc about the bends or flow i did reduce further
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline upstatenybowyer

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #7 on: November 11, 2016, 08:15:52 pm »
Bubby, anyway we could see that baby unbraced?
"Even as the archer loves the arrow that flies, so too he loves the bow that remains constant in his hands."

Nigerian Proverb

Offline BowEd

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #8 on: November 11, 2016, 08:23:32 pm »
Bubby and Pat are right.It can take a bit to get that top view width taper to transition more streamlined.I do it with longer fades narrowing and thickening as you go opposed to as Pat said that abrupt transition.It still will show some stiffness on your levers yet.That's really what you still want yet.
Nice looker there Bub.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline DC

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #9 on: November 11, 2016, 08:26:54 pm »
"Levers", that's the word I've been looking for :o :o. Thanks Bubby and Pat. My levers are recurved too. My levers(say it three times and I'll remember it) are shorter and more recurved than yours. I just got it braced and am waiting for it to cool off after my first, and I hope my last string alignment. I may have too much recurve but if need be I can flatten it out. Thanks for the help.

Offline BowEd

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #10 on: November 11, 2016, 08:34:51 pm »
You might just need to align your tips for the string to pass across the handle correctly and down your recurves.The more recurve you put on those tips  the more devilish alignment can be.The plane of your limbs to your recurve gets a little more touchy then.Tweaking as I call it.It can take more than one try.It's frustrating once in a while but most times to a good end result.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline DC

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #11 on: November 11, 2016, 08:37:18 pm »
Tell me about it. Sometimes I seem to spend more time with a heat gun in my hand than I do with a rasp and scraper.

Offline BowEd

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #12 on: November 11, 2016, 08:51:25 pm »
Yep.With me I always wait an hour before rebracing too yet to see for alignment.You can with stiff non working parts.On limbs that's even a longer wait for me.Sometimes a whole afternoon is gone before I get it the way I want.I have gotten away with it sooner but I would'nt advise it.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline bubby

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #13 on: November 11, 2016, 09:01:19 pm »
 Someone wanted an unbraced pic this is it or one like it, i like the nonstatic tips on these bows the alignment isn't as critical
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline upstatenybowyer

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Re: Molle tips
« Reply #14 on: November 11, 2016, 09:10:55 pm »
Thanks Bubby for that pic. I've never been able to make non-static tips work without sinew. I guess it must be the narrowness and thickness. Anyway, thanks again and good luck with that bow DC.  :)
"Even as the archer loves the arrow that flies, so too he loves the bow that remains constant in his hands."

Nigerian Proverb