Arrow woes

[sleek]

My arrows buck, they twist, they wag, they mis the target completely, they damn near do the hokey pokey and turn themselves around.

I shot some sunday and did so bad I lost some arrows and broke a stone hunting point. I am using two fletch turkey store bought feathers ( killed a dear last year perfect shot with this style) cane shafts, and stone points. I am pinpoint with my target arrows, with duolex nail field tips, make one with stone and the arrows flies like drunk bee.

[loon]

may need to go down in spine since stone is pretty light? dunno

[Danzn Bar]

When I'm tuning my hunting arrows to a bow........
I use glue on traditional target points. when I have the right combination I remove the glue on point a replace it with a stone point.  I use cane shafts, so if the stone point is lighter I add a lead nail or weight to the center of the shaft before I put the stone point on to match the glue on target point.
DBar

[sleek]

What method do you use to attatch your stone points?

[osage outlaw]

I did like Bill when I needed more weight up front.  I drilled out the bamboo shaft and glued a 16 penny nail shaft in it so it stopped at the base of the notch for the stone or trade point.

[selfbow joe]

Do you guys weigh each arrow and get them all the same.

[Danzn Bar]

Joe,
At distance less the 20 yards....80 grains difference doesn't make a difference IMHO for a target of 6" in dia.
DBar

[Danzn Bar]

What method do you use to attatch your stone points?

Sleek,
I go for durability.....I use 5 min epoxy with charcoal dust mixed in (for looks) and used what ever thread to tie it on while the epoxy is a little soft.  The point breaks before it comes off................
DBar

[osage outlaw]

It's hard to get even weights when using cane or bamboo shafts unless you have a lot of shaft material to sort through.  I pay more attention to the spine stiffness than the overall weight.  But I only like to shoot 20 yards or less.

[Danzn Bar]

It's hard to get even weights when using cane or bamboo shafts unless you have a lot of shaft material to sort through.  I pay more attention to the spine stiffness than the overall weight.  But I only like to shoot 20 yards or less.

Your right Clint a "lot of shaft material".........
DBar

[mullet]

You probably already know this, but are you cutting your nocks with the stiff side of the cane towards the bow?

[sleek]

I havent paid any attention to that mullet. I dont have a spine tester, just kinda bent them by hand to feel for over all spine.

[Thunder]

Hey sleek,
All you need is 2 nails 26" apart nailed level in a wall and a 2# weight to hang in the center. Use an arrow you have that works well for you and use it to figure out the deflection you need (mark it on the wall). Get your new arrow, spin the arrow around and the stiff side will show itself by lifting the weight up, slide the shaft back and forth until it matches your test arrow deflection. Use that marked side against your bow.I hope that makes sense. I'm no arrow master but that's how I do it and its worked for me. 

Cheers
Thunder

[sleek]

Can not having the stiff side facing the bow cause the arrows to porpoise in flight?

[Pappy]

I try and put the stiff side toward the bow, but I tune mine 1 at a time using a field tip and then as others said make my hunting head match that weight, you can shorten the shaft if you need it stiffer or leave longer for weaker to get the spline to match  the bow, I do all of this before fletching. Also the nock point will cause the porpoise up and down, spline will usually cause wagging the tail left and right. Cain can be a bear to tune sometimes. Sometimes you can just flip them around on the nock and they will shoot better.
 Pappy