Penobscot bow

[Edge]

I've been researching of late the design and construction of a penobscot or double bow.  As this bow seems to date back to ancient Persia and also at least as far back as the 1700's with a few of our north american tribes, I thought it would qualify as a primitive bow build.   Has anyone had any experience with these bows and/or pics?  Advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Edge

[Pat B]

There have been a few Penobscott bows built here on PA. Do a search. I thing Rich(Halfeye) has made one but I don't remember whom else may have.

[Edge]

So here is the start of my Penobscot bow.  this is the main bow made out of a hickory board and finished with royal walnut.  70" ntn and drawing about 30lbs.  This is my first flemish twist bowstring as well.  the nocks and arrow rest are deer horn.  I"m planning on using leather on the handle.   The front bow is ash and measures 36".  I'm hoping for 10-15 lbs on this one putting the whole unit up to mid 40's...here's hoping...

[Edge]

I was exercising my hickory board bow with the string on.  I put the string on and left overnight with a 7" brace height.  the next day as I was drawing it I did short draws then longer draws until I reached my full draw of about 28".  Then i heard a pop.......I quickly looked at the back of the bow for any cracks but couldn't see any.   Does anyone have any ideas?  Is this bow now kindling?

[RBLusthaus]

run a cotton ball up and down the back of the bow.  You will find the spot where you popped a splinter right quick.  I would never, ever, ever leave a wood bow strung all nite, on purpose.  Accidentally maybe, if I had too much adult beverage to keep my wits about. 

Russ   

[Edge]

I must admit that I am a noob at this.  I read somewhere that as part of the process, when stringing for the first time it was common to string at the desired brace height and leave overnight to help the limbs "adjust".....Now I may be wrong or misunderstood the process BUT, it was done as part of my process.  I respect that you may have more knowledge than me and I admire that you only make mistakes or misunderstand when you're drunk...but this was not the case here.
with respect
cheers
Edge

[PEARL DRUMS]

Like Russ said, use a cotton ball to find the sliver and NEVER EVER leave a bow braced if you aren't hunting or shooting. Its wood and wood has memory like any natural material. Truthfully? If you want thee best advice you will find anywhere on the planet, stay here. There is no better site or book or source than good ol' PA. That's not just my internet opinion, its fact.

Have fun with your build

[RBLusthaus]

My apologies if I seemed flippant - - that was not my intent.  I wish I only made mistakes when I drink too much - sadly, that  is not the case - I err all the time :-)

Russ

[RatherBinTheWoods]

I made my fist Penobscot recently and the back bow added exactly what you are hoping for 10-15lbs.

The main bow was hickory at about #45 and rage back bow was a short piece of Osage I was given that was mildly reflexed. If I did another one I would reflex the back bow more to see if it made any significant difference.

I tillered the back bow almost all the way before gaffer taping the back bow on and finishing to full draw and that seemed to work okay. You can see pics in my recent posts.

Bows were held together with rawhide strip wraps for the final assembly.

I would love to hear anyone else's experience with this design though

[Edge]

I took a look at your penobscot.....looks very nice.   I see what you mean about more deflex in your front bow and I will ensure that mine does.  I am using hickory as the main bow and ash as the front bow.  Do you have a pic of how you affixed string to short bow? congrats on the build

[PEARL DRUMS]

I have only seen one or two on here. Its not a popular build for most because there are no advantages, just more work for the same outcome. It is something a guy would build just to say he has once.

[Edge]

Forgive me but,  in my readings I am of the understanding that the front bow adds some poundage to DW and arrow speed without adding significantly more effort to drawing the bow.  I will know for sure when I've finished mine of course but that is one of my motivators.  Also, for those of us noobs who tend to end up with bows of lighter DW's, this may be a method of bolstering  the DW on an otherwise pretty good bow.  I"m just speculating at this point of course and suggest this as polite conversational feedback.
cheers
Edge

[PEARL DRUMS]

If a person wants a heavier draw weight he tillers a single bow accordingly. Whether your draw arm draws 50# from one bow or 50# from two bows combined, its still the same load of 50#. If you research this style, you will find its mostly a novelty style bow. There are several other ways to boost a low weight bow. One would be trimming an inch off each end, that will give you nearly 5#. You can temper the bow if it hasn't been done yet. Done right that can add an easy 10#. You can "flip" or recurve the tips and that will also add an easy 10#, sometimes more. I'm not trying to talk you out of your build, just trying to help you realize there are no benefits just more work and finicky timing to get worked for the same end result a single piece of wood offers. 

[Edge]

thank you for that...maybe those techniques are where I should be focusing on.  My main bow is apporx 30 lbs..and is 70" ntn..I could shorten to 66" pretty easy. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Shorten a bow 4" and you should gain all the weight you want. I bet you get near 45#.