1" Lilac sinewed-Tiller help please

[BowEd]

Really I kind of wish I had that sucker here to tiller.You've come a long ways already.I sure hope it pans out for ya.One thing if it throws the string off at brace it should'nt break it.You'll have to get alingment of those tips dead nuts.Keep your heat gun handy.Then if the string does stay on it's a matter of how it acts after release shooting an arrow.It should stay on if everything is in line good.With it being a bendy handle I really don't know how that will all act there.Keeping it stiffish in the handle area would be a good thing I think.Keep us posted.

[Parnell]

Any thoughts on laying down a thin layer of horn on the belly?

[JW_Halverson]

I was so worried you had abandoned the project or it had failed.  Glad to know you are still in the fight!!!

When you stop tryin' you start dyin'.

[DC]

As much as I dislike bridges,I would glue temp ones on. I think it's going to be an SOB to get the string alignment good.

[BowEd]

If enough sinew is on it should get a good bow weight I feel and retain a good reflex yet.It's got good enough length.On the tillering tree getting a good 6" past handle should tell you a lot already with a long string and the poundage it takes to get there.The way it sets I really think just a primitive stringer would get it to brace.Then it's the letting go of it to see what it does.

[PatM]

As much as I dislike bridges,I would glue temp ones on. I think it's going to be an SOB to get the string alignment good.

 Why the dislike of such a useful thing?

[DC]

I'm not sure. I think it's because, to me, they look like an add-on to fix a fault. Kinda like getting the foundation of a shed crooked and then propping it up with a 2x4. I know that's not the case but that's what I see

[joachimM]

String bridges or not, that sucker is going to flipflop over and over again. There is not enough lateral limb stiffness imo.
see hungarian horn bows: very long reflexed levers, broad limbs. Levers have lateral bone plates for extra stiffness for a good reason.

Tried such extremely long setback levers out on pvc bows some years ago, and quickly learned what not to do.
But hey, I'd like to be proven wrong 

[DuBois]

So, scraped off some of each limb and still hittin 50# and only to flat profile pretty much. I know long string lies and not sure what I am really at or how hard to pull her.

Lookin at it as is, where would you remove next to get it correct once braced?

[DC]

I would make a bracing jig like Marc did on this thread. About halfway down the page

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,18701.0.html

[PatM]

You'll have to bite the bullet and just brace it with a jig as noted. Even an already worked in and tillered bow probably wouldn't behave on the long string with that profile.

[Urufu_Shinjiro]

Good call on leaving the levers long, I think this is a good example of where this is going:

[BowEd]

Yes like Pat said it's bite the bullet time pretty soon.Keep scraping and scraping till you can get the tips to brace level at 45 to 50 pounds.If your tapering is good it should arch into the form of a braced bow.Then it's just a matter if the wood belly can handle it and how stable it'll be with a string on it long enough to see if there's any adjustments to be made with tip alignment too.I wish you the best of luck.I'd love to see that bow shoot.
DC's idea because of the set back of the levers might be a good idea too.
You've come a long way already might as well keep going.These type bows take a lot more time.

[PatM]

Get the handle bending a bit too and then do a wizardgoat style cork build up if it holds up.

[DuBois]

Ok Pat, Ill scrape handle a bit and work on a bracing jig. That is a nice set up!
Once I get it a little further I will look at bridges and make a decision fer sure.
Urufu, if it comes out in any way resembling one of those I will be more than satisfied.

Thanks folks and I'll keep you posted.