Author Topic: Dry time  (Read 8226 times)

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Offline Justin.schmidt23

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Dry time
« on: August 13, 2016, 11:41:04 am »
So I heard a quite from a bowyer not too long ago that said " seasoning is a myth.  Dry Is dry" I've also seen quite a few people say get the wood to floor tiller then let it dry for however long.  What's your opinion? I'm not very patient especially when it comes to waiting for wood to dry. So I have 2 staves down about 3/4 of an inch thickness and rough bow shapes. How long until I can Finnish them up? At this rate I'm gonna have 15 staves and no trees in my back yard! Lol what is your opinion?
"Good enough " is never good enough. Take pride in everything you do.

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2016, 11:46:29 am »
making good wood bows is all about patience, so that's something you will have to work on!
Buy a kitchen scale. The wood has no moisture when it stops losing weight for a week or more.
Keep cutting and roughing out blanks, eventually you'll have more dry wood than time

Offline SLIMBOB

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2016, 11:49:09 am »
Speaking only for Osage....Baker was mistaken in my opinion.  I have first hand seen the difference between just dry Osage (moisture content) and seasoned, and there is definitely a big change.  White woods I cant speak to.
Liberty, In God We Trust, E Pluribus Unum.  Distinctly American Values.

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2016, 11:57:32 am »
Justin if you want to see posts on the dry versus seasoned debate, just do a search. It comes up a few times a year. Of course 99% of guys would pick a seasoned stave over a dry one, in any species, but for you, a guy that just wants to get bending, make sure is at least DRY

Offline Justin.schmidt23

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2016, 12:05:27 pm »
I'm not about to try and start a dry vs season debate I might be new but not THAT new  ;D I can let a few pieces season np. And there's really no problem for me being patient while working (now that I know power tools are a no go aND eddie hooked me up with a draw knife.) But I don't work and this is my only hobby right now. So waiting a year to do a hobby is no bueno right now. Just trying to get a rough estimate of how long I can wait until I can start tillering some
"Good enough " is never good enough. Take pride in everything you do.

Offline SLIMBOB

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #5 on: August 13, 2016, 12:12:02 pm »
At that size, just let them reach equilibrium weight wise, with the environment and then carry on.
Liberty, In God We Trust, E Pluribus Unum.  Distinctly American Values.

Offline Justin.schmidt23

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2016, 12:12:47 pm »
At that size, just let them reach equilibrium weight wise, with the environment and then carry on.

How do I hope about that?
"Good enough " is never good enough. Take pride in everything you do.

Offline DC

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2016, 12:18:01 pm »
You only have to be patient for three or four months if that. Your first bow will be a little sub standard and take a bit more set than you want due to dampness but the rest will be dry by the time you get to them. Fill that time tracking down and hoarding bow wood. I started this two years ago. I really enjoy crashing about in the bush so I found collecting wood to be fun. I built up a good stash and just the the other day I picked up a stave that was two years old. Be sure to label your staves with the date and species.

Offline SLIMBOB

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2016, 12:21:52 pm »
Weigh them.  Once they quit losing weight, your there.  You can use a scale or a counter balance weight.  Just something sensitive enough to indicate little changes.
Liberty, In God We Trust, E Pluribus Unum.  Distinctly American Values.

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2016, 12:22:16 pm »
At that size, just let them reach equilibrium weight wise, with the environment and then carry on.

How do I hope about that?

Read my first reply. But a kitchen scale

Offline Dictionary

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2016, 12:29:47 pm »
Weigh them.  Once they quit losing weight, your there.  You can use a scale or a counter balance weight.  Just something sensitive enough to indicate little changes.

This is what I was gonna suggest.
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

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Offline Stick Bender

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2016, 12:42:39 pm »
Im glad the kitchen scale was sugested to me a 1 in thick ruffed out hickory stave that I had inside since Feb. that I thought should be good to go is still losing weight , I could have sped it up by making it thinner but wasent sure which way I was going with it .
If you fear failure you will never Try !

Offline Justin.schmidt23

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2016, 12:54:11 pm »
I'm gonna look into getting a kitchen scale sounds like a pretty ingenious idea. My question is.  How did the native Americans know when the wood was seasoned. This is a hobby for us but that is how they fed their families and protected their home.
"Good enough " is never good enough. Take pride in everything you do.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #13 on: August 13, 2016, 12:55:02 pm »
With woods like osage, black locust and mulberry seasoned is the way to go. You can build a bow with these woods just dry but you will get better performance, more stability and less set with seasoned wood. I don't make many whitewood bows but I think you can get by with dry wood using whitewoods. Get your wood down to floor tiller stage and it will dry quicker. Keep it in your house with A/C and it will dry more and stay dry.
 I don't use a moisture meter or weigh my staves but I've collected wood for twenty years or so so I always have seasoned wood. I think that is the way to be sure your wood is ready to work, by collecting wood for later use instead on finding one stave to work on. If you are cutting one stave you can cut 4 or 5 with just a little more work. I can tell by the sound of the tools as I work the wood and by the feel, how does the wood recover when bent. If the wood feels sluggish when you bend it it probably hasn't  dried or been seasoned enough. And, just because a piece of wood has seasoned for years doesn't mean it is dry enough to work. The moisture in your wood goes up and down with the R/H in your area. That's why I do most on my bow building in the winter, the R/H is generally dryer then.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Justin.schmidt23

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Re: Dry time
« Reply #14 on: August 13, 2016, 01:03:13 pm »
With woods like osage, black locust and mulberry seasoned is the way to go. You can build a bow with these woods just dry but you will get better performance, more stability and less set with seasoned wood. I don't make many whitewood bows but I think you can get by with dry wood using whitewoods. Get your wood down to floor tiller stage and it will dry quicker. Keep it in your house with A/C and it will dry more and stay dry.
 I don't use a moisture meter or weigh my staves but I've collected wood for twenty years or so so I always have seasoned wood. I think that is the way to be sure your wood is ready to work, by collecting wood for later use instead on finding one stave to work on. If you are cutting one stave you can cut 4 or 5 with just a little more work. I can tell by the sound of the tools as I work the wood and by the feel, how does the wood recover when bent. If the wood feels sluggish when you bend it it probably hasn't  dried or been seasoned enough. And, just because a piece of wood has seasoned for years doesn't mean it is dry enough to work. The moisture in your wood goes up and down with the R/H in your area. That's why I do most on my bow building in the winter, the R/H is generally dryer then.

Makes alot of sense pat. I've cut 2 trees and had about 9 staves out of the bunch. So I've basically been practicing my craft. Unfortunately all I have is laurel oak, live oak (which has a pretty good reputition) hackberry, camphor, and a but load of unique usable pine. I'm in Florida so hickory is kinda useless do to the extremely high humidity and it's tendencies to set. Besides I can't really find any. Oh and I think I have 2 trees of Indian rosewood but haven't confirmed that yet.
Anyway I don't mind hacking down a tree with my hatchet then splitting it. I just don't really have a year or more to just wait so I can get my hands dirty. And I can't see myself spending 60 bucks to mess up a stave lol
"Good enough " is never good enough. Take pride in everything you do.