Osage character static recurve follow along. ***update page 5

[SLIMBOB]

Hey Leon.  Thanks for checking in!  FYI, deflex may be out.  There is a tiny drying check in the handle and fade, belly side, on the reflexed limb. I attempted to bend the deflex in yesterday and that tiny split tends to open up as I bend it.  I fear it will run out into the limb if I go much farther.  I stopped, super glued it and clamped it shut just for reassurance.  I think I will leave it reflexed and make the deflexed limb match.  Any suggestions welcomed, but that's the plan as of today.  Really pretty piece of Sage.  Has that red color to some of the grain.

[Deerhunter21]

Maybe make a rawhide bandaid. it will probably keep it together enough for you to reflex it.

[SLIMBOB]

A patch wouldn’t do anything. It’s just a cosmetic issue as it is, but if it runs out into the limb it will tend to open up as it’s compressed when bending. I’d rather not let that happen, and heating alone will cause it to open up. Deflexing will likely make it worse. It’s no problem as it is. After glueing it you can’t even see it. Might just leave it and match the other limb to it.

[leonwood]

Yep, I would skip the deflex also if I ran into that issue. Reflex it is! Might even become a rocket launcher after that

[SLIMBOB]

Thanks Leon. At 58 inches long I will have to be cautious with the reflex. I have the recurved tips measured at 3 1/2 inches, so shortish. I’m gonna get the limbs on the same track, get the tiller even, get a string on it and see what I have.

[SLIMBOB]

Alright...I reflexed the deflexed limb so that they match one another.  That will make it easier to tiller evenly.  I will take some of the reflex out when I bend the tips later.  On to the tillering stick for 20 inches or so.

[leonwood]

Looking good! 

[simson]

you did well, Bob. That long lasting project seems to come to a good end 

[SLIMBOB]

Thanks Leon.  That one you posted is a knockout btw.

Thanks Simon. Still a ways to go but I’m liking the looks of it.

[SLIMBOB]

Got some time in on it this afternoon for a few hours.  I heat straightened the crook in the end first, and then worked on the floor tiller.  It's bending pretty well right now.  I put temporary string nocks on it.  since I am gonna bend the tips I will leave them wide and I dont want to file temporary nocks in the side, so I wrapped the end with some twine and soaked it in super glue.  That's enough to keep the string on it while I tiller.  I then put it on the tiller stickand pulled it with the long string to the first notch.  Looks decent.  It appears to have a good deal of prop twist, and it has some, but the knots close to the handle cause the wood to run uphill a good bit.

[SLIMBOB]

For you newer guys that struggle a bit with the tiller....I take a straight edge about 4 inches long and run it along the belly from handle to near the tip.  I mark the belly at the flat spots where no daylight is showing.  I also mark the spots that do show daylight with an "X" indicating not to scrape here.  I do this on both limbs because I want to work at keeping them even in draw weight.  If they are not that is the first thing I will work on.

[SLIMBOB]

Then I mark the belly with a pencil every where it needs scraping.  I scrape those areas only until the pencil marks are gone.  That will prevent you from over correcting an area.  Do this on both limbs.  Then put it back on the tiller stick and check it again.  Look at from a distance to get a feel for the balance between the limbs.  Then run your straight edge again along both limbs making your marks where it needs to bend more.  Notice that the first picture shows the bow drawn to only the first notch.  The second pic it is pulled to the third notch.  What you didn't see was the part in between the 2 where I pulled it to the second notch and checked it before I went to the third notch.  Keep the limbs balanced with one another and take wood off where the straight edge says it's a bit flat.  Pretty simple.  Normally I would get a string on it now and work on the brace profile, but I wont do that here yet because of the nocks.  I want to get it bending a bit more and then bend the tips.  Doing it this way I can narrow the tips on one side if needed to get the alignment right...On the one pick you can see that I have marked nearly the entire length of the limb.  That's what you want.  No weak spots.  More next time. 

[burchett.donald]

     Looking good Bob, like that character...
                                                                  Don

[SLIMBOB]

Thanks Don. Glad you checked in.   Got about an hour on it yesterday evening and got it to the 4th notch. Bending nicely. A little troubled with the twist in it but nothing to bad.

[SLIMBOB]

Been storming here for ever, every day it seems for months, but I got a little time in on this last night and this morning.  I bent the recurves in and it was murder.  One tip is bent off sideways so I had to straighten it.  As I began to recurve the tip it began to split from all the torque I guess.  I was still thick so I was able to sand them out, but I may still put underlays on it if it needs it.  Filed in my knocks so I am ready to brace.  My set up isn't fancy at all but it works.  Little strips off old belt sander bits to keep the clamps from sliding.   Honey do's for a bit so maybe more later today.
Nearly 6 inches of reflex...That's a bit much.