My board bow (build along?)

[BowEd]

Congrats Marin.You've got a shooter.It'll be fun dressing her up.It can be the fun part.Many options out there or decisions to make if you want.It's not a mandatory thing just a  personal preference thing.It's your bow.I'd take a look around at different bows on bows of the month thread once.

[Marin]

I do have a couple of questions. First the lower limb seems to be taking on more set than the top. Why could that be?
Also, how can I better plan to make weight? I was told that for every inch in draw length is 3 lbs in draw weight. How come that did not work for this bow (it was 24# at 21" but 38 # at 28")?

[turtle]

I do have a couple of questions. First the lower limb seems to be taking on more set than the top. Why could that be?
Also, how can I better plan to make weight? I was told that for every inch in draw length is 3 lbs in draw weight. How come that did not work for this bow (it was 24# at 21" but 38 # at 28")?

If you look at your full draw pic you can see that your nocking your arrow WAY too high. This  makes your bottom limb bend more than the top which is why bottom is taking more set.  During tillering if you always pull to desired draw weight (exept if you see a obvious problem before reaching that weight) you wont come in light.

Very nice for your first bow.

[BowEd]

I'm glad someone pointed that out turtle.I should of last post.The reason is you removed too much material to get your 45# bow.Your bow should of read 25# @ 20" draw to get that.Don't know if you put the bow into a positive tiller either.That's a slightly wider gap between the string and limb on your top limb compared to your bottom limb.Anywhere from 1/16" to 3/16" using a tape measure around 6" out from the fades.
As a general rule a 50# bow gains poundage around 2.5 pounds per inch.Not hard to determine that.6" of brace/Draw is 22" to 28".Divide 22" into 50#.Next time when you get a straight limbed bow to brace.Use a poundage tester on your tillering tree.That shows the weight gain every inch way before coming to full draw yet.This measuring will get you in the ball park.Bear in mind longer bows will not have as much gain or more even towards the end few inches as a shorter bow will.That's because the string angle will be higher on the shorter[under 62"] bow.These things you will learn by making more bows.
You could of done that too on your bathroom scale if you would of been checking.It's faster and easier with a poundage tester on your tilleing string on the tillering tree.
I suggest you get the TBB 1 to help yourself out tillering and the language used for bow making.That will help you a lot.

[Knoll]

Congrats, young man!

[bubby]

Ed i told him 3# an inch as that has been what i seem to get, the arrow nocked way to  high causes more stress on the bottom limb Sean and that is the main reason for the extra set. Great job on your first bow and have fun making many more and remember its all about the journey , not the  destination enjoy the ride

[BowEd]

OK Bub.Sorry I may have been rough explaining things.

[Marin]

Thanks ,
I'll nock the arrow lower.
Oops about the weight.

[Marin]

Ed,
I do have TBB vol 1 and I have read that chapter. I was going to try doing that method (pulling to weight and then adjusting the draw length) but I  decided to try what others were suggesting.

[DC]

38# is a great target weight. You can comfortably work on your form while you are making your next bow. Not many get a good shooter on their first try.
PS lower your nock point Like about two inches I'd say

[Stick Bender]

Don't worry about the weight I just re tillered a bow  that ended up at 39 lbs  and  it's a blast to shoot with out breaking a sweat , light bows are fun & easy to work on form with  congrats looking foward to you osage build !

[Marin]

Well I sanded the handle. I'mdoing the type Bubby did for his board bow as it looks the most comfortable. I might rasp it a little more but how does it look so far?

[bubby]

No problem Ed just explaining where he got his info😉the most important thing with the grio is that it is comfy to you, its looking good so far

[loon]

Awesome bow  great to have as a first too
Yeah, the nock point should be high enough that the fletchings don't cut your hand or slam into it, but low enough that it doesn't strain the tiller? and doesn't get the arrow out of tune up/down too much.
The best nock point for clean flight and not straining the bow may still cut the hand if not wearing gloves, though?..

[BowEd]

No problem either Bub.Just relating what my experiences and info is here too.
Marin...You've got 1 bow under your belt thanks to Bub.Many first time bows come in under weight.Even some bows later do too.Does'nt mean it's a failure.A broke unfixable bow does.If you get a chance to go to a bow making gathering it's a lot of fun.Good luck on your next one.